The Usual Suspects - Destination: The Grenadines

15.	The Dock. You’ve booked the tickets, read tons of material, planned every aspect of every day, counted down what seemed like an infinite number of “sleeps,”, dragged tons of luggage through numerous airports, and finally you are on the boat, actually leaving the dock. It is an exhilarating feeling - pushing off the dock, motoring out of the harbor, unfurling the sails, shutting off the engine, and finally hearing that sweet sound of the wind in the sails and the ice hitting the glass. The relief of finally arriving combined with the excitement of knowing you have the whole trip ahead of you puts you on cloud nine every time. But wait, there’s more. Returning to the dock at the end of the trip produces yet another fantastic sensation, believe it or not. A whole series of emotions hits you when your feet hit the dock at the end of a spectacular adventure. There’s a feeling of pride and accomplishment after delivering the boat back to the charter base safely and in one piece after a week or more of somewhat challenging conditions. There is a great satisfaction of living the many wonderful experiences of the Grenadines, accompanied by a deep desire to return. You can’t help but raise both hands in the air and demonstrate to everybody around that yes, life is indeed perfect!
14.	Transportation. For most of us, this means the standard automobile - probably a late-model, four-door, maybe a sunroof, not likely a convertible. Getting around in the tropics is a much less formal affair, and each island has its own special mode of transport. On Petit St. Vincent, the resort uses the Mini Moke (right), which is essentially a glorified golf cart of British origin. Mustique is famous for its Mule, another type of open golf cart manufactured by Kawaski. Romping freely around the island in one of these vehicles is a real different experience for those used to the four-door sedan equipped with winter tires. Bequia has loads of taxis - Japanese pickup trucks with wooden benches in the flatbed and an awning to protect you from the sun. Air conditioning is supplied by the Trade Winds. Simple and effective, they provide a great platform for a day tour of the island. Bequia also has a well-developed water taxi network. Being delivered to Sunday happy hour at De Reef in Lower Bay is special thrill - the taxi operator must carefully time your drop (and later pickup) with a quiet point in the crashing beach surf. Makes for a great story when you get home. Mayreau is famous for its narrow and very steep network of expressways (two to be exact). There are four old pickup trucks that have never seen service, used to taxi people around the island. Strange noises from under the hood are remedied by turning up the volume of the sound system. Ironically, guests still insist on being driven down the steep hill at the end of the evening because they consider it too dangerous to walk in the dark. I find it strange that they consider it safer to have Righteous (who has been partying heavily with you since sunset) pilot an automobile down the steep and narrow road in total darkness in that vehicle. It’s amazing what a day in the hot sun does to the brain.
13.	Ginger Beer. Made with freshly-grated ginger, this surprisingly tangy beverage is a real treat if you ever need a break from alcohol, heaven forbid. There is none in this drink, despite the name that suggests otherwise. My favorite spot to enjoy the best ginger beer is the Green Boley in Bequia.
12.	Caribbean Rum Punch. The potency of this stuff is legendary, and until you try it yourself, it’s hard to believe. Even those with the highest capacity are rendered disabled by only a few glasses. Bartenders employed by the St. Vincent Department of Homeland Security are trained to negate any terrorist or military offensive through the administration of just a few rounds. Each sip causes measurable deterioration in motor functions. Three glasses is the theoretical maximum, and four glasses usually results in you falling off the dock trying to get into your dinghy. Forget Iraq, the real Weapons of Mass Destruction (WoMD) are hiding amongst the Trade Winds.
11.	Tella-communications. The Caribbean is perceived to be way behind when it comes to technology, so it is naturally assumed to be in the Dark Ages with telecommunications. I mean, how can these people possibly live without several cell phones, voice mail, call-forwarding, or Blackberries? Better, actually. If you ever need to be located while on vacation, the Charter Company can probably find you anywhere in The Grenadines in under ten minutes. I’m not joking. They call a few friends in various anchorages that you might likely be anchored in, who simply look out their window for your boat. If it is there, they relay a message by VHF, or simply tell a Boat Vendor or fisherman, who passes the message on to you. Immediately. It is the Caribbean version of Instant Messaging. VHF radios monitoring Channel 68 are everywhere. You can do almost anything over the radio - order food, arrange a taxi, book a reservation, get the weather, or make a purchase. If you don’t reach your intended party, someone will be happy to relay the message. No existing technology has this many features at so little cost. Then there is the power of a network of correspondents. You can pretty well ask anybody to relay requests, reliably I might add. I once ordered a CD standing at a supermarket checkout counter, when the cashier overheard me say I was looking for the owner (Kennie in Bequia) of the music store - she was his neighbor and kindly passed my request on, and voila, next morning Kennie was standing outside his shop with the CD I ordered the night before through the cashier. Try getting that from Amazon.com. Everybody who has visited this part of the world has a story of how something was arranged in this manner. We consider it unusual. They consider it normal. Either way, it is very entertaining.
10.	Soup. That’s right. Soup. In the Caribbean. The Caribbean is last place you would expect to enjoy a great bowl of soup, however most places serve up two spectacular kinds that you should not miss. Each restaurant has their own recipe for Pumpkin Soup, and comparing the subtle differences between recipes is worthwhile hobby. Some places make it thick and creamy, while others specialize in a thinner version with small chunks of pumpkin. Either way is great! It is not always available, so whenever it is, you should jump on the opportunity. Callaloo Soup is made from a spinach-like leaf that is available pretty well everywhere in the islands. At first sight, its dark green (almost black) color makes you wonder what you’ve gotten yourself into. Sit tight and try it, the fine taste will quickly convert you into a believer.
9.	Hairoun Beer. A product of St. Vincent, it is not available outside the country, so you really should treat yourself to this prize. Available only in bottles, it is not the logical choice of sailors who usually insist on canned beer on board. This fine brew will make you wonder why you ever drank Heineken or Carib (a beverage that necessitates being chased down with a stiff rum). Line up a few dozen of each and conduct a blind taste test - you’ll see what I mean.
8.	The Swim Ashore. You need to actually do this to understand the experience. Anchored in a place that has a great beach bar, try swimming ashore for the mid-afternoon cold one instead of taking the dinghy in. Wrap your shirt around your head, tuck a few bills in there, then swim ashore. It’s a pretty neat feeling to sit with your beverage at the beach bar and look out at the yacht that you just swam in from.
7.	Soca Music. It is not possible to remain still when Soca music is playing, and I dare anybody to prove me wrong. This stuff breeds happiness to all who listen. Performers such as Becket (left), Poorsah, Blaksand, Kevin Lyttle, and New Direction have a sound that is unique to the St. Vincent. It is characterized by cheeky sexual connotations in the lyrics, if you are able to understand them. Ask a local to explain if you can’t figure them out.
6.	Conch. The great piles of seashells you see lining several rocky shores are not from some failed attempt at marketing Caribbean trinkets. These shells have been harvested and the delectable meat that is extracted ends up in a fantastic stew that is only available at one of the four restaurants on Mayreau. Enjoy it cooked from scratch with a fantastic curry or creole sauce at Island Paradise or Righteous and de Youths. Yum! In addition, the conch roti deserves to be in the Food Hall of Fame. Sitting down to one or three at a picnic table at the Green Boley in Bequia is a great way to do lunch. Yum yum!
5.	The Tobago Cays Shopping Mall. Picture yourself on the foredeck of your yacht anchored in the Tobago Cays on a sunny day, clad in a tropical-theme sarong, a baby-Rummer on the go, shopping. Just stay put and the Boat Vendors of the Tobago Cays will make your dreams come true. It is no secret that Free Willy has the best selection of sarongs in the whole planet. Need that special t-shirt to bring back? No problem, Sydney or Mr. Quality is your man. Let Walter Bob deliver hot bread right to your galley. Need some fine handcrafted jewelry - spend a few minutes looking through Larsten’s inventory. Tuffer is known to have the largest supply of live Caribbean lobsters at the best prices. Try doing this back home.
4.	Jimmy Buffett. For years, Jimmy has been my “bridge” to the Caribbean. His music has sustained me through countless cold Canadian winters, forever reminding me of turquoise waters, ice-cold beverages, and the promise of a carefree life in paradise. Listening to that same music anchored in one particular harbor completes my journey to a better place. Surrounded by the real thing, my dream becomes a reality. Thanks Bubba.
3.	Infamous Characters. There is no shortage of “characters” in The Grenadines. These people love their lives in paradise and spread their good cheer to everyone around them. Robert “Righteous,” Sydney Dallas, Yellow Man, Mr. Plat, Free Willy, Mr. Fabulous, Dennis, and Lambi immediately come to mind. Spend a little time getting to know them and you will begin to understand a whole lot more about this part of the world. You will want to come back again and again to hook up with them.
2.	The Rummer. No list is complete without this one. ’Nuff said!

1.	Petit Tabac Day Trip. This year’s number one Grenadines experience has to be the day trip to the island of Petit Tabac, located just outside the Horseshow Reef in the Tobago Cays. What makes this visit so special is that the island is not frequently visited - the water outside the reef is too rough to get there by dinghy, and the only anchorage is too shallow for keelboats and not well-protected. This experience makes number one this year because after visiting the islands for so many years, I finally got the opportunity to go there. The island was used for a major scene in the movie Pirates of the Caribbean, one that saw the demise of the buccaneer’s rum cache. You can often have the whole island to yourself. Arrange a day trip with Free Willy - lay on your own patch of sand, take in the fine surroundings, bury your toes in the white sand, stare at the sky, enjoy a fine BBQ lobster lunch, do nothing. Take photos. Gloat.