Introduction

For natural beauty, St. Lucia is tough to beat.  This island is extremely mountainous, and for that reason it gets plenty of rainfall.  You will see dense green vegetation clinging to steep mountainsides, resulting in some of the most breathtaking scenery in the entire Caribbean.  There is no better way to experience this than through an Overland Tour.  You should not visit St. Lucia without adding the tour to your itinerary, and nothing less than a half day does this destination justice.

Arrangements

You could opt to rent a car for the day and drive wherever you want, whenever you want.  Be aware that the roads are narrow, bumpy, and snake up and down the sides of mountains with a steepness that makes even the most experienced drivers squirm.  It will require 100% of the driver’s concentration at all times, meaning that the driver will not have a lot of time to see things while under way.

You might want to consider hiring a local taxi (mini bus) for the day instead.  The driver will suggest an itinerary, but you can pretty well alter that at any time.  That way, you just sit back and enjoy the show.  I have suggested that these tours can originate in either Soufrière or Marigot Bay.  In Soufrière, the kind folks at the Hummingbird Resort can put you in touch with a reputable Taxi driver.  In Marigot Bay, I personally recommend the services of Kieran Sonny, who can be located through JJ’s Paradise.  In fact, you can find him through just about anybody anywhere in Marigot Bay.

In terms of cost, four of us paid $120 US for a half-day tour that started in Marigot Bay and took in all the sites up to and including Soufrière.  We did not negotiate so I cannot say how this compares with other operators.  I would recommend spending a few minutes negotiating a price, perhaps you can do better than $120.  Nonetheless, we were extremely pleased with Kieran and felt we got our money’s worth.

The Sights

Just sitting back and taking in all the sights and sounds as you drive through the countryside is part of the experience.  You will see things that you will not find back home. 

At the top of the hill overlooking Marigot Bay, you will stop at a lookout point.  Bring your camera because from this strategic location you will conclude that Marigot Bay is one of the prettiest natural harbors in the Caribbean.  I am told that British Admiral Samuel Barrington sailed into this secluded bay in 1778, covered his ships with palms, and successfully hid from the French.


One Particular Harbor

Leaving Marigot Bay, the road takes you through a few banana plantations.  If you have never seen one, ask the driver to stop and have a look at exactly how bananas are manufactured.  Yes they do grow on trees.

There are two towns between Marigot Bay and Soufrière, both at sea level.  To reach them, you must follow a tight bumpy road that winds up a steep mountainside with loops back and forth many times.  There are no guardrails between you and the cliff below, raising the level of excitement somewhat.  Do take the time to have a look, because the view of the surrounding mountains and cliffs set against the bright blue background of the Caribbean Sea is what this trip is all about.  You will catch a whiff of overheated brakes from oncoming vehicles as they descend.  You hope that your vehicle has had a recent brake inspection.

Along the way, you will encounter several roadside stands that sell a variety of local foods.  Ask your driver for recommendations and be sure to stop along the way for a great local snack. As well, you must experience the taste of a fresh coconut.   There are several stops along the way where youths will climb a coconut tree and select one for you.  They will cut the top off with a massive cutlass, enabling you to drink the delicious coconut water contained within.  Finally, ask them to split the coconut in half so that you can scoop out the delicate meat. 


Kieran Sonny (second from left) leads
several Suspects on a quest for coconuts.
Look closely at the size of the cutlass held
by the lad not wearing a shirt - yes he still
has all his fingers.

You will pass through the fishing villages of Anse La Raye and Canaries along the way.  Both provide an interesting glimpse of contemporary life in the Caribbean without any of the external distractions associated with tourism.  You will witness the local women laundering their clothes at a community laundry facility, as they have done for decades.  Farm animals roam freely about. 

Leaving Canaries, the road traverses up a very steep and narrow ridge that features a terrifying cliff of over a thousand feet on both sides!  Again, be sure to look around because the scenery is just unbelievable.  You’d swear the St. Lucian Government constructed this road in such a way as to tease you as you approach The Pitons.  You are offered brief glimpses of them at various points along the way, whetting your appetite for something more.  Their full splendor is finally revealed as you round a bend in the road, prompting a chorus of Oooohs and Ahhhhs from the passengers.  Several lookout points along the way provide excellent photographic opportunities of the twin peaks as they rise steeply out of the bright blue waters of the Caribbean. 

These incredible mountains have become the symbol of St. Lucia.  Formed by lava from a volcanic eruption 30 to 40 million years ago, the twin pyramidal cones are covered with thick tropical vegetation.

Your trip continues down yet another steep descent into the oldest town in St. Lucia, the fishing village of Soufrière.  It was founded by the French in the mid 1700’s and named after the nearby volcano.  See The Pitons and Soufrière for more information.

Just out of Soufrière, the Diamond Botanical Gardens are part of Soufrière Estate, a 2,000-acre gift from Louis XIV in the early 1700’s to the Devaux brothers from Normandy for their service to France.  Do not miss this.  There is a small charge to enter, but you must experience the beauty of the gardens.  Tall trees of every variety tower above bushes and flowers that line the path that leads up a gentle slope.  All are marked by signs, so you'll know what you are looking at. It is quite interesting to see the natural origin of some common household products and spices.  The fragrance that emanates from this vegetation is quite intoxicating.

The path continues into a steep gorge and ends at the Diamond Waterfall.  The source of this waterfall is vapor from La Soufrière volcano and water bubbling up from nearby sulfur springs.  The rocks behind the waterfall have become stained with various shades of green, purple, and yellow as a result of the minerals from the black water. 

 

 

Near the falls, underground springs feed the mineral baths.  For a small fee, you can bath in one of the outside pools, or you can upgrade to Business Class and get a private pool of your own.  Apparently, Louis XVI of France had a dozen or so stone baths constructed for his troops in the late 1700’s.  Remnants of these original baths are still present.  It is also claimed that Josephine Bonaparte bathed here as a young girl, but who’s going to dispute that?

While vacationing in St. Lucia in the mid 1980’s, Ronald McDonald was driven by car through La Soufrière Drive-In Volcano and an idea was born.  Today, Drive-Thru McDonalds litter the urban landscape in tens of thousands of locations worldwide.  Seriously, the north side of the crater was blown off in the last eruption, making it rather straightforward to enter.  A road constructed by the Government gets you to within a few hundred feet of the bubbling, steaming pools of muddy water, multi-colored mineral deposits, and scorched earth that make up the center of the crater.  Admission includes a guide who will give you the tour that is fascinating and educational.  Prepare your nose for the strong scent of sulfur. 

All in all, the Overland Tour is one of the great Caribbean Experiences that you do not want to miss.

Last Updated: July 1, 2000
Copyright © 2000