Once in your life, you must experience the magnificence of The Pitons.  These twin peaks rise 2600 feet straight out of the sea and their beauty is nothing short of spectacular.   It’s difficult to describe the feeling of being moored on a yacht in the Caribbean, right under these impressive formations.

Soufrière is also an excellent starting point for sightseeing.  As described in the Overland Tour section, the southern part of St. Lucia offers some of the most beautiful scenery in the entire Caribbean.

Getting There

The Pitons destination is a simple one hour sail or motor from Marigot.   From St. Vincent and The Grenadines, it is a 9 hour passage from Bequia, or 6 hours from Wallilabou if you chose to break up the trip into two segments.  The inter-island segment of the trip will take four and a half hours.  Be cautious around the northern tip of St. Vincent, as you will experience extreme gusts of wind that could spill your drink if you are not prepared.

There is no Customs facility here, however it is no problem if you overnight before moving on to Marigot Bay to clear in.  If you are heading south for St. Vincent, the St. Lucian authorities can clear you out at Marigot, and you have up to 48 hours to actually leave.

The whole Pitons area is several miles across,  and features six excellent and completely different anchorages to choose from, depending on what you’re looking for.   All are under the care and control of the Soufrière Marine Management Area (SMMA), and a mooring fee is collected at each (see their Website for details). Mooring facilities and procedures are as follows:

• Hummingbird Anchorage – Located at the northern part of the bay in front of the Hummingbird Resort, in the town of Soufrière.  This is one of two anchorages that provide convenient access to town.  There are no mooring balls, so you must anchor stern-to shore, with a stern line tied to a coconut tree on the beach.  It requires some preparation and precise maneuvering.  You will need to prepare a long stern line, at least 100’.   A Boat Boy will guide you the exact spot to drop the hook, then you back in, often into a fairly tight space between other anchored boats.  The Boat Boy will then grab the stern line and run it ashore to the Security Guard at the Hummingbird who will tie it to the tree.  Quite a process.  You will feel like a real pro when you get it right, as there will likely be an audience on shore.
  
  
• Soufrière Jetty – Located right off the pier near the center of town, expect this spot to be busy and noisy.  There are 5 available SMMA moorings that you must use, however they can only be used between 3PM and 11 AM (overnight).   See map.  The SMMA have some excellent tips on their Website that describes the use of their mooring system.
  
  
• Malgretout – This pretty and more isolated anchorage is located along a beach just north of the base of Petit Piton.  There are 22 available SMMA moorings.  See map.
  
  
• Jalousie – This spectacular anchorage is located in Jalousie Bay between the two Pitons.  There are 8 available SMMA moorings. See map. 
  
  
• Rachette Point has 2 available SMMA moorings, and Anse Chastanet has 4.  See map.

Soufrière Marine Management Area (SMMA)

The Pitons are what it’s all about here.  Thankfully, this natural treasure is now managed under the authority of the Soufrière Marine Management Area.

The SMMA was initiated in the early 1990’s in response to a growing concern over the rapid deterioration of the area on several fronts; Boat Boys, coral damage, and fishery mismanagement.  An agreement that enjoyed wide participation of the stakeholders was drafted to enable sustained management of the area.  The final phase of implementation was completed in 1999.  Unfortunately, their new headquarters, completed that year, was destroyed by huge waves during Hurricane Lenny last November.

Park Rangers are visible on the water, and continue their mission of coral protection and monitoring, management of yacht moorings, scientific research, rules enforcement, and public education.  The Rangers are a great bunch of guys who really enjoy their work and take pride in what they are doing. 

Ongoing involvement from the Fishermen's Cooperative, St. Lucia's Dive Association, and the St. Lucia Water Taxi Association assist the Rangers in meeting their objectives.  Their dedication and hard work is paying off.  This success story is a fine example of governments working together with various stakeholders to achieve a result that is beneficial to all parties.  The Boat Boy problem seems to have disappeared, and a sense of responsibility is visibly present here.

Be sure to visit the SMMA Website at www.smma.org.lc for more information.  They publish a Newsletter that provides the latest information on activities in the Park.  It’s always a good idea to check the Newsletter before you arrive.

Boat Boys and Beach Boys

The Pitons-Soufrière anchorage has not exactly enjoyed a sparkling reputation for the past behavior of its Boat Boys.  Their harassment techniques are well documented and countless stories exist of high-pressure sales tactics, implied threats, and unfriendliness.

Thankfully, due to the great community effort involving the SMMA and the St. Lucia Water Taxi Association, significant steps have been taken to clean up this problem.  On our November 1999 trip to the area, I was approached by only one Boat Boy named Cletus (boat named Thunder), who was very pleasant and helpful in guiding me into the Hummingbird Anchorage, and running the stern line to shore.  I observed other Boat Boys taking orderly turns guiding other yachts to anchor.  I concluded from my brief observations that any problems with Boat Boys were a thing of the past.

St. Lucia Water Taxi Association members can be easily identified by their SWTA T-shirts and ID cards. They carry an official price list from the Association for the various services they offer.  There is a real sense of accountability from the SWTA, and they are very concerned about visitor perception, as you can see from a recent SMMA Newsletter article from their Website. 

There are still reported cases of unauthorized Boat Boys operating at Malgretoute and Jalousie who continue to create problems for visiting yachts, despite the best efforts of the SMMA and SWTA.  You can eliminate any problems quickly by insisting on using only the services of authorized SWTA members, and immediately reporting unauthorized Boat Boys to the SMMA or Police on VHF channel 16.

While the harassment problem on the water is pretty well cleaned up, it has now moved to an entirely new group of entrepreneurs – the Beach Boys.  For those of you who are unfamiliar with this career alternative, the Beach Boy is essentially a Boat Boy without a product to sell or a boat to sell it from.  Literally dozens of youths hang around the beach all day, evening, and night, watching every move you make.  The CIA does not have this extensive a level of surveillance.  When you come ashore, several of them spring into action and assist you with everything from landing your dinghy to finding your way into town.  It’s difficult to refuse their help without being rude.  Then they pull out the closing question, “How about a little something for me?”  Now what do you do?  They want money.  You don't want a scene.

You wonder if anything bad will happen to you or your boat if you refuse.  You become uncomfortable, not over any real threat, but a perceived one.  Basically, you are not happy with the idea that you have just refused to give money to a group of people sitting right next to the line that holds your expensive yacht in place.  It does not take a great deal of imagination to wonder if all the stories you hear about lines “coming loose” or being cut are true.

Until I personally visited this area, I believed that harassment problems could be completely avoided by a positive attitude adjustment, such as smiling and being very friendly (a technique found very effective in The Grenadines).   This does not avoid the problem because the underlying cause is much different.  A stroll through the town of Soufrière will quickly reveal the economic state of the area.  You will witness dozens upon dozens of people just sitting around with absolutely nothing to do.  There is simply no work for them.  Consequently, a substantial number of youths with no skills or required services must compete for a small number of tourists to pay for their next meal.  Aggressive behavior and harassment is the end product.

There are no simple solutions here folks.  Simply passing laws and trying to enforce them on a desperate economy will not be that effective.  Being friendly goes a long way, but does not avoid the problem.  In the end, these people need work, pure and simple, and that is up to the Government and local business to take a leadership role and clean this problem up before all the tourists are driven away.  They’re trying, but they really need to get this under control soon.

Despite your level of discomfort over being watched all the time, and possibly being asked for a few dollars, there is no hard evidence (personal experience or first-hand reports) to suggest you are in any real danger.  There are Security Guards on duty 24 hours at the Hummingbird Resort who will watch your boat and dinghy while you dine.  They are friendly and helpful, and do their best to keep the Beach Boys off the beach directly in front of the property.

The only advice I can offer is to be mentally prepared for it, smile and be friendly, avoid a confrontation at all costs, and solicit the assistance of the Hummingbird Security Staff if you feel things are out of hand.  It’s unfortunate that you have to resort to such tactics, but there is no way you should miss this experience of this place because of a little harassment.

Hummingbird Anchorage and Resort

If you anchor directly off the Hummingbird Resort and use their facilities and restaurant, you gain access to their 24 hour Security Guard coverage.  You will find Harry during the day, dressed in his jet-black uniform, ready to assist.  He will tie the stern line to a coconut tree during anchoring procedures.  Assign someone to keep an eye on who does what ashore because one of the Beach Boys will invariably swim out to your boat, board the swim platform, and demand payment for tying the knot.  In all the excitement of anchoring, you may not know just who did what.

Harry is very friendly and helpful, and will be there to chase away the Beach Boys, help you land your dinghy, drag it up close to the Resort, watch it while you’re ashore, and provide whatever assistance is needed.  When he’s off duty, Thomas and another fellow take over, round the clock.   It’s probably not a bad idea to leave a small tip for these guys, given that they perform a very valuable service.

You will also have to endure a number of young boys who decide to turn your swim platform and dinghy into a diving platform.  Boys will be boys, and I’m not sure anything left in the cockpit will be there after a few minutes, so be cautious and politely send them away.

Once you are out of the protective custody of the Hummingbird, expect to be approached by Beach Boys and other hustlers in town.  Again, smile and be polite, but decline unless you really require the service they’re offering.  We found one youth willing to haul a cart full of provisions from downtown for $5 EC, enabling us to consume a “traveler” (a beer in this case) with one hand, and hold one in reserve in the other.  Money well spent.

This anchorage is an excellent place to sit and marvel at the splendor of the surrounding scenery.  Anchored less than 100 feet off the beach, you can enjoy cocktail hour while taking in the rugged landscape that surrounds you.  To the north, cliffs jut straight out of the water and blend into the mountains that encircle the town of Soufrière.  The golden crescent beach is lined with tall stands of coconut trees.  You can just barely make out the side of the volcano set into the mountains, as you will see the steam that issues from it.  Petit Piton rises straight up out of the water and provides some of the most amazing scenery in the entire Caribbean.  Taking in all this natural beauty is definitely one of the great Caribbean Experiences. 

The Hummingbird Resort is a charming little place. You are encouraged to use their facilities, and they will assist in whatever arrangements you require during your stay.  Guest facilities include a few cottages set in dense vegetation, each with a private terrace and a view of Petit Piton.  A night here might provide a nice break from the boat if you’re so inclined.  The pool provides a nice alternative to salt water bathing.  Be sure to visit their Batik Shop, as you will find some very unique items made by local artists.  The Bamboo Beach Bar is right on the beach and is a great launch-pad for sundowners and meeting other cruisers.

Above all, be sure to eat at the restaurant.  The atmosphere of the lounge and dining room is enchanting.  The cuisine is Creole, and I can say that it is one of the finer restaurants on St. Lucia.  Joyce, the proprietor of the Resort, is a most warm and gracious hostess, and will make you feel right at home.  A visit to this excellent resort is a must.

Finally, you may elect to start your overland tour of the rugged south part of St. Lucia from here.  Joyce can arrange for a reliable Taxi driver.  At the very least, a visit to the nearby volcano, sulfur springs, mineral baths, Diamond Botanical Gardens and waterfall, as well as a number of scenic lookout points is a must.  These and other experiences are described in more detail in the Overland Tour section.

Other Anchorages

Our one and only trip to The Pitons was compromised by the aftermath of Hurricane Lenny.  Only the Hummingbird Anchorage was calm enough for use, so I do not have any first-hand details on the others as of this date.  There was a concern at the time that the huge waves had possibly damaged some of the SMMA moorings, however I’m certain these have all been inspected and cleared for use by now.

I had heard from reliable sources that Malgretout is absolutely stunning as it is right at the foot of Petit Piton, where the awesome beauty of the environment overwhelms you.  It is also well away from civilization, and you could almost have the entire anchorage to yourself.   I did take a quick motor through this anchorage, and from what I could tell, it's exactly as described.  I fully intend to anchor here on my next trip and experience it for myself.

The Jalousie Anchorage is similar in its splendor except that you are anchored under two Pitons.  It is somewhat less isolated because of its close proximity to the Jalousie Hilton.  I also conducted a quick drive-through of this anchorage and definitively want to experience it on my next trip as well.

In Jalousie Bay, Anse Des Pitons is a crescent of white sand that was imported by the Jalousie Hilton Resort and spread over the original black-sand beach. The beach is accessible through the resort or by boat and reputedly offers great snorkeling and diving.  I suspect the Beach Boy problem here is nonexistent as a result.

I also suspect that the unusually high concentration of Beach Boys we experienced at the Hummingbird Anchorage on our previous trip was in part due to the fact that the other anchorages were closed.  It is possible, under normal circumstances that they spread out to cover the other locations, hopefully resulting in less aggressive behavior.

Soufrière

A walk through this very traditional Caribbean town is a must.  Relatively unaffected by tourism, you will witness the residents going about their day-to-day business, as they have for decades.  Simple dwellings line the streets, once painted, now weathered gray from years of exposure to the sun and rain. French colonial influences in the architecture of the wooden buildings around the market square can be seen, with their second-story verandas and gingerbread trim.  It is very interesting to simply walk the streets and take it all in.  I have found the residents here friendly and helpful, and a quick stop into one of the local watering holes for refreshment is an interesting experience.

You may be approached by more Beach Boys, now on duty in town, who will offer to be your “guide”.  The choice is yours.  You will also become quickly aware of the large numbers of people sitting idle in the streets.  This level of visible unemployment is discomforting.

Finally, a walk back to the anchorage along the golden sands of the crescent beach will conclude an afternoon well spent.  A liquid refreshment at the Bamboo Beach Bar, and you have a complete Caribbean adventure.

 

The Suspects will return