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Ohhh what a Feeling!!!

The Fun Tickets are on the dresser.  All hell has broken loose at work, but you don’t really care because in a very short while, you will be relaxing on the swim platform of a yacht in the Caribbean, with a cold beverage in your hand and Jimmy Buffett playing in the background.  There is no greater stress relief than “knowin’ you’re goin’.”

In order to maximize quality time on that very swim platform, experienced bareboaters know that advance planning pays big dividends later on.  After all, one does not want to run out of rum in the middle of a story, or have to detour well out of the way to pick up a few things at the store.

The Suspects have the preparation routine down cold.  Almost all of our trips go off without a hitch; they are well planned from the start.  We never run out of cash or rum, always have the right provisions, and pack right every time. 

Basically, we have learned that planning can be grouped into six major categories:

  • Travel Companions and Destinations
  • Bookings and Arrangements
  • Itinerary Planning
  • Financial Planning
  • Provisioning
  • Packing

Travel Companions and Destinations

Picking your travel companions is the most important part of the whole program.  Expectations must be properly set in advance, and the people you choose to travel with must all want to enjoy a common experience.  It is important to select companions who have a realistic understanding of what they are signing up for.  They must fully understand the concept of shared living space, standards of cleanliness, financial obligations, and responsibilities aboard the boat.  

Most people get it right, but every now and then, a mismatch in personalities results in The Trip from Hell.  In the many years I have heard stories of shared accommodation schemes, I am surprised at how many of them have turned downright ugly.  They begin with the right intentions, but as things progress, close quarters and lack of privacy wears on people.  Some do not handle this well.  They begin to snipe at the most petty things, and by the end of the experience, do not ever want to see each other again.

There are reasons for this.  First, a boat is a small place to cram 6 or 8 people.   There is absolutely no privacy, and humans seem to need a place to call their own every now and then.  Each of the participants have their own idiosyncrasies, standards of cleanliness, and tolerance.  As time progresses, tolerance levels diminish.

There are also the effects of the depressant alcohol to contend with.  Negative symptoms the day-after include anxiety, irritability, indecision, and laziness; all in addition to just feeling lousy.  This can often be the source of conflict aboard the boat.  Understanding it as the source goes a long way in extending tolerance levels.

Finally, you must be certain you have selected companions with sufficient financial means and career independence.  You want to avoid a commitment that they later back out of at the last minute, leaving you holding the bag.  I cannot count how many people have promised to join me on a trip, only to back out at the last minute because they didn’t have the money, or that their boss wouldn’t let them leave work.  Get the money UP FRONT, then you know you have a committed companion.  No money - no booking.

Destinations are a matter of personal taste.  The BVIs offer relatively easy sailing and a more substantial social scene, but at the expense of more crowded anchorages.  The Grenadines, on the other hand, offer unparalleled beauty and uncrowded anchorages, but don’t go there looking for a party or easy sailing.  There is sufficient information available in cruising guides as well as the Internet.  Newsgroups are a useful method of measuring the opinions of others who have traveled to the various destinations.  Either way, you cannot lose - one week on a boat is certainly better than one week in the office.

Bookings and Arrangements

This part can be difficult, irritating, and time-consuming.  You must perfectly match up the vacation availability of your travel companions with the availability of a specific boat, the availability of two or more connecting flights on a number of airlines, and maybe even a hotel or two.  Given these conditions, it’s a wonder we ever actually get away.

It is an iterative process.  You find that you can get the boat you want for specific dates, but cannot get a flight for everybody to match that window.  You try alternate dates to work around the airline problem, only to find it does not fit one person’s vacation schedule.  You work away refining the dates, only to find that you have to split up the party’s airline bookings, so that you all get there after three days of flying over seven connections, one of them through Vladivostok.

Eventually you work it out, almost always with compromise.  When the travel agent finally presses <ENTER> on the keyboard - you’re booked!  Believe it or not, the most difficult part of the trip is over.

Itinerary Planning

How much money, clothing, food, and other items that you need to plan in advance is directly related to your itinerary.  Once the itinerary is set, the other items fall into place.

You’ve settled on a cruising area, so start by asking the Charter Company for a suggested itinerary, then modify it to suit your personal tastes.   They deal with so many guests and have a good idea what works in a particular region.  It’s not rocket science.  The fine-tuning comes when you specify certain preferences, such as snorkeling, partying, dining out, total privacy, or lots of sailing.  At this point, do not get bogged down in the details of each destination, just decide where you will be on any given day, not everything you plan to do.  Plan for a “floater day” if possible, and be prepared to alter the order of the schedule.  Leave yourself the flexibility to add, remove, or swap an anchorage once you arrive.

The itinerary should look something like the following illustration, taken from a typical seven-day Grenadines trip.  It is an illustration only; so your mileage may vary:

Day 0

Fly (all day) to get to The Grenadines.  Arrival drinks and dinner at the charter base.  Overnight on the boat.

Day 1

Provisioning, boat check out, chart briefing, and departure.  Sail to Mustique and overnight there.  Sundowners at Basil’s and dinner at The Firefly.

Day 2

Morning taxi tour of Mustique.  Sail to Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau and overnight there.  Dinner at the Salt Whistle Bay Resort.

Day 3

Motor to Tobago Cays and overnight there.  Cocktail hour and Yellow Man lobster dinner on board.

Day 4

Motor to Palm Island for lunch, then on to PSV.  Dinghy over to Mopion Sandbank.  Cocktail hour and fresh fish dinner on board.

Day 5

Sail to Union Island, refill water and provisions, overnight there.  Happy Hour, dinner, and an evening jump-up at Lambi’s.

Day 6

Long sail to Bequia.  Hot shower and a nap.  Quiet dinner at Mac’s Pizza.

Day 7

Early motorsail back to charter dock for check out.  Depart airport in early afternoon and fly home.

Don’t micro-manage the planned activities at this point - you will collapse into a state of confusion if you try.  Just decide that on a particular day, you will probably be at a specific place, and probably do something - only so that you can visualize what you might need to wear, bring, eat, and spend.  Nothing more.  Save the details for when you actually arrive at that destination.

Financial Planning

I am uncomfortable with carrying wads of cash around with me on vacation, or anywhere for that matter.  While the threat of being robbed at knifepoint is very low, boat break-ins do occur on rare occasion.  Not wanting to ruin my vacation worrying about this, I try to reduce the risk by using credit cards where possible and carrying only enough cash to do the job, with the intent of stopping at the next ATM to load up.  While ATMs exist in the Caribbean, they are not conveniently located under every palm tree, so you have to figure out how much you need between stops.

This means budgeting.  From the itinerary, try to guess what you might do, and how much it might cost.  It’s not critical that you get each estimate correct down to the penny, but rather that each item is accounted for, and a reasonable cost estimate made.  The Suspects keep records of expenditures from past trips so we know exactly how much things cost.  We can usually predict the per-person cost of a two-week trip correctly to within $20.  Really.

The following illustration shows a financial plan for the seven-day Grenadines illustration for three couples, one that leans heavily on dining out.  This includes the common expenses only, and not any personal shopping.

Day Travel Plan Item $US
(Cash)
$US
(Credit)*
- Pre-trip Charter fee $3,000.00
Airline tickets for 6 $3,100.00
Provisions $150.00
 

0

Fly Home-SVD

Airport Limo for 3 couples $85.00
Drinks on plane $36.00
Drinks at Frankies Barbados $30.00
Taxi from Airport $20.00
Provisions at Sunrise $400.00
Drinks/dinner at Barefoot $150.00
 

1

Blue Lagoon-Mustique  

Mooring rental at Mustique $32.00
Sundowners at Basil’s. $50.00
Dinner at Firefly $400.00
 

2

Mustique-Salt Whistle Bay

Mustique taxi tour $50.00
Ice $10.00
Dinner at Salt Whistle Bay Club $325.00
 

3

Salt Whistle Bay-
Tobago Cays

Ice and bread $12.00
Lobster from Yellow Man $140.00
 

4

Tobago Cays-Palm-PSV

Ice and bread $12.00
Fresh fish $25.00
 

5

PSV-Union Island and overnight there.  Re-provision, water, and BANK

Mooring and Parrot protection money $15.00
Water  $12.00
Cash subtotal to Union Island ATM $929.00
Additional provisions $50.00
Happy Hour, dinner, and an evening at Lambi’s. $180.00
 

6

Union-Bequia.  

Mooring $20.00
Ice and bread $12.00
Dinner at Mac’s Pizza. $100.00
 

7

Bequia-Blue Lagoon
Fly SVD-Home

Breakfast at Barefoot $60.00
Diesel $20.00
Taxi to airport $20.00
Drinks at Frankies Barbados $20.00
Airport Limo for 3 couples $85.00
Cash subtotal from Union Island ATM to Home $307.00
 
Trip Subtotals $1,236.00 $7,385.00
Total Cost of Trip $8,621.00
Total Per Person $1,436.83

* Credit Card column used to distinguish deferred or prepaid amounts from cash.

The strategy here is to simply figure out where you can use a credit card and where you must use cash.  Knowing where ATM machines are located, calculate how much cash you will need to get you to the next stop.

In the previous illustration, there are ATMs on Union Island and Bequia.  Since you don’t hit Union until Day 5, simply add up the cash purchases up to to that day, in this case, $929.00.  You’ll need an additional $307.00 to get you home from there.  Since $1,236.00 does not represent a significant amount of cash, you could plan for the whole trip and avoid the ATM altogether.  However, the ATM strategy becomes more useful on longer trips.

A few words on budgeting.  It is more critical to be sure you do not forget a line item than to be exact on its exact cost.  Do not scrimp on each estimate, but do not pad excessively either.

You will find that the trip will not unfold financially as you plan.  You might skip some planned event one day, but decide on something unplanned another, resulting in a net-zero financial impact.  That is the key - a net-zero impact.

Do not try to obtain local currency before you leave, the exchange rate will kill you.  I recommend carrying US cash, but always obtain change in local currency.  Almost all Caribbean countries will accept US cash for transactions.  ATMs will spit out local currency, and always at the best possible cash exchange rates.  Credit cards give the best exchange rate on all transactions.

Provisioning

The same principle applies to provisioning. - bring just enough.  In order to do that, you need to have some idea how much you will consume on board, and when.  Perishables pose the greatest challenge in that they have to be purchased along the way, every few days.

From the itinerary, determine where you will spend each of the three daily meals, plus any cocktail hours and snacks.  Use a spreadsheet, it’s easier.  Eliminate the dining-out meals, then zero in on the on-board dining with some form of meal plan.  All of the parties will have to be present for this one.  Figure out what you want to eat at each meal, then create a list of ingredients you need to make it.  Don’t forget condiments and spices.  Tally up the items to form a master shopping list, and you’re done.

Some suggestions:

  • Buy some of the items at the supermarket at home and bring them with you.  Processed items that would either be terribly expensive or unavailable in the Caribbean should be bought at home.  You cannot possibly do all your shopping at home, so a trip to the supermarket once you arrive is necessary.  You must trade off potential cost savings against the difficulty of lugging several tons of supplies through the various airports.

  • Try to buy as much of the rest at the supermarket at your sailing departure point, as it will be most convenient to load on the boat.  You do no want to interrupt your tanning to go grocery shopping every few days, do you?

  • Note the locations of other supermarkets on your trip as you will likely need to buy perishables along the way.

  • Boat Boys sell fresh bread and ice, so you can depend on them for these items daily.  Although they also sell produce and fruits, it is often not reliable.  Boat Boys are the prime source for lobster and fresh fish.

  • On the master list, note where you intend to purchase each item; at the home supermarket, at the departure point supermarket, or along the way.

  • You cannot legally bring meat or produce into most Caribbean countries.  I have tried several schemes to keep steaks frozen in transit, all with varying degrees of success.  Trying to barbecue these things on a six-inch grill in twenty five knots of breeze is a real challenge, if you manage to even get the darn thing lit.  I have since given up, and now capitalized on the availability of the finest in fresh lobster, fish, and conch.  You can give the Texas Barbecue a rest this one time - it’s the Caribbean, not the Wild West.

  • Bring some non-perishable inexpensive items that can be pressed into service for a decent meal “just in case.”  Pasta and packaged pasta sauces are real cheap, take up very little space, last forever, and can feed plenty if necessary.  If you don’t use them, it’s no big deal to give them away at the end of the trip.

  • Make certain you have stocked up on enough bottled water for the entire trip.  Dehydration is a common problem in the Caribbean, so be prepared.

  • Booze - absolutely!  Don’t forget the mix.  And the limes.

Yes, I’ve heard the “horror stories” of how outrageous food prices seem to be in the Caribbean.  You must understand that the thin volcanic soil and mountainous terrain of Caribbean islands do not lend themselves well to agriculture, so almost all food is shipped or flown in, and in small lots.  Don’t get too caught up in trying to penny-pinch in the food department, and here’s why.  When you add up the provisioning cost, then compare it to the total amount of money spent on the trip, it runs at about 6% - 8% of the total.  So, even if you were able to miraculously cut the food bill in half by lugging cheaper food from home through every airport along the way, you only reduce the total cost of the trip by 4%, or $57 per person.  Is it worth the hassle?  You decide.

Packing

Twice the money, half the clothes,” should be your motto.

Simply put, there are not that many opportunities for a fashion show in the Caribbean.  Given that you will be in and out of taxis, airports, and clearing customs in one or more foreign countries, the agony of towing Victoria’s Closet is simply is not worth it.

My personal goal is to fit everything in one carry-on, and as a result, I have never suffered the inconvenience of lost luggage.  Remember that on-the-water laundry service is usually available, at a reasonable price.

Simply put, you will spend most of your time lounging around on the boat.  You will also spend some time on overland adventures, a few dinners in very casual and quiet restaurants, and the rest of the time sleeping.  That’s it.  Plan accordingly.

Some suggestions that work for the Suspects.  Again, your mileage may vary.

  • The T-shirt is probably the most versatile and practical garment for any trip.  It is compact to pack (when rolled up), and can be used for lounging, trekking, dining, and sleeping.  It is easy to clean and goes with anything.  Because of the hot humid climate, you can only wear a T-shirt for a single day.  Therefore, pack one T-shirt for each day, less whatever number of T-shirts you expect to buy when you are down there.

  • You will need a swimsuit as well as shorts for lounging around on the boat.  I strongly recommend that the shorts be made of a synthetic, as it dries quickly.  Cotton does not, and given the capacity for water splashing around the deck of a boat, can be quite uncomfortable.

  • Snorkel equipment is usually provided by the charter company, however it is never very good.  If you have a good mask, bring it along, but leave the fins behind.  They take up a huge amount of luggage space, and you can put up with sub-standard fins, but not a sub-standard mask.

  • Bring 2 - 3 short-sleeved evening shirts (in this case, Parrot shirts) and 2 pairs of dress shorts for evening, no more.  You can wear them over and over as you only have them on for a few hours, as it’s not that hot in the evenings.  Even the most expensive places have a very relaxed dress code - basically, they just want you to be dressed.  Often, you will be the only people there, so fashion is not a big deal.

  • In the Windward Islands, you are far enough south that the nighttime temperatures do not warrant long pants or long-sleeve shirts.  More northerly destinations might require a fleece or light windbreaker in the evening.

  • Open-toe sandals are practical for trekking and dining, and take up very little room.  Several changes of footwear take up room and are really not necessary.  Try going barefoot on the boat - it’s really great telling your friends back home that you did not wear shoes for 10 days!

  • Ladies tend to bring more stuff.  I’m not going to wade into this debate, but I suspect  it is possible to survive in paradise without a curling iron or a blow dryer.  They don’t work on the boat anyway.

  • Do not bring expensive jewelry or clothing.  It is an advertisement to any potential thief that you are filthy rich and probably won’t mind being mugged or robbed.  If you have a real cheap plastic waterproof watch, bring it and nothing else.

  • Charter boats have CD players, so this is your opportunity to waste the day away in Margaritaville, listening to your favorite Buffett tune.  For a few dollars, it is possible to buy a CD carrying pouch that holds up to 48 CDs - you don’t have to bring all the jewel cases.  This saves space.

  • Everybody brings a camera.  If you have a Digital one, don’t forget to bring extra batteries. You might also consider one of the disposable cameras - they take reasonable holiday shots and you never have to worry about somebody stealing it.

  • I use a small battery-powered razor that delivers a consistently bad shave all the time, but is very compact.

  • The sun is hot, so you will need a hat and sunscreen of at least SPF15.

  • Insect repellent is also necessary at night.

  • If you plan on consuming lots of alcohol, acid indigestion could become a problem.  I find that Pepcid AC works well because you can take it before to prevent the problem.  It really works well.  Bring something for headaches.

  • Charts and a GPS should be on the boat, but confirm the GPS with the Charter Company first.  Navigation at most charter destinations is usually line-of-sight, so a GPS with waypoints is really not essential.  I have one mostly for entertainment and amusement, and to verify my speed and ETA.

  • Towels and linens come with the boat, so you don’t need to pack these things.

One final suggestion that I use to reduce the amount of things I have to lug around in airports.  I depart from home dressed in Caribbean attire, not Canadian winter attire.  Essentially it’s khaki shorts, short-sleeved shirt, and sandals - that’s it.  No winter coat, boots, or long johns.  Because I have a taxi pick me up at my front door and drop me off at the Departure level of the airport, my total exposure to Canadian winter is about 30 seconds.  Anybody can survive that.  From there, it’s airport lounges, the aircraft cabin, then on to the sunny Caribbean.  I see people carrying around winter coats and several layers of warm clothes, all to avoid that killer 30 seconds.  Think about it.

Why Go Through All This Fuss?

I have been criticized in the past for detailed planning on the basis that, if it is a holiday, why not just go with the flow?  While such detailed planning might appear anal, I’m also not the guy lugging a pair of 75 pound suitcases through airport terminals because I had no idea what I might need to wear.  My afternoon Rummer has never been interrupted to go fetch vital provisions ten miles in the opposite direction.  I’ve never said “gee, we can’t pay for dinner, we’re out of cash.”  I think before, so I won’t have to later.  Basically, when I’m on vacation, I’m ON VACATION.

Knowing that everything is in order before the trip really helps get me relaxed when I’m down there.  This level of planning really contributes to what I call “The Paradise Routine” - essentially a trouble-free vacation.

While this process has worked for the Suspects, is is not necessarily the only way to go.  Every time I travel, I learn some important tip from someone with many more years of experience than I, and I appreciate it.  Hopefully, some of these tips passed on will help you enjoy your next trip even more.

Bon voyage!

* * *


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Last Updated: April 1, 2002
Copyright © 2002