Clifton, yes Clifton, the Worldwide Corporate Headquarters for the Intergalactic Boat Vendors Federation.  Clifton Harbor is a busy and tight anchorage with some pretty ugly boats permanently anchored there.  The waterfront is home to some rugged real estate, however recent efforts to clean up the village has made a dramatic difference.  It’s not the Tobago Cays.  You either love it or hate it.

There are three main reasons to visit.  It might be time to restock your provisions and take on water; Clifton is the best place to do that in the southern part of The Grenadines.  You may need to clear in or out of Customs if you are going to or returning from Carriacou (Grenada).  Finally, you may want to check your E-Mail, send or receive a fax, make a telephone call, withdraw cash, have your laundry done, or get rid of your garbage.  Clifton has it all.

Getting There

Clifton Harbor is a simple one-hour motor from Saline Bay or the Tobago Cays, and an hour and a half close reach or motor sail from Hillsborough, Carriacou.

Approaching Clifton, you have to be alert because there are a few obstacles that could complicate life if you’re not paying attention.  Grand De Coi reef is to the south, and is well marked.   From the north, you must go around a series of red markers that keep you off Newlands Reef that forms the eastern boundary of Clifton Harbor.  The harbor entrance is well defined with red and green markers, however a very dirty yellow one marks a reef that sits right in the middle of the harbor.  Pass between the yellow marker and the red one if you want to anchor off Newlands Reef, or the yellow marker and the green one if you plan to use a mooring closer to town.

Settling In

Your biggest obstacle will be the Boat Vendors, who will be stalking you at the mouth of the harbor.  The name of the game in Clifton is whether you want a mooring or not, and given the difficulty you might have in getting hooked, it might not be a bad idea.  Upon arrival, you will experience persistence taken to a whole new level as the Boat Vendor will first try to persuade you to take one of his moorings, then engage in a well-orchestrated series of sales pitches for everything from bread to garbage removal.

There is some basic information you need to know about the moorings in Clifton Harbor.  Lambi owns a number of them, and provides them for you free of charge as long as you eat at his restaurant.  Any of the Boat Vendors can direct you to one of Lambi’s moorings, although your best bet is to seek out Herman, who patrols the harbor in a beat up white boat with “Lambi’s Restaurant” painted across the side.  He makes his living from the tips you provide for his assistance, so something in the order of $10 EC to $20 EC is not unreasonable.  If you choose to eat elsewhere, expect to pay an additional $20 US just for the mooring.  Calvin from the boat Skipper 2 also has several moorings and charges $20 US per night.  If you decide to take a mooring, ask for one closest to the main part of town.

You can always anchor on the leeward side of Newlands Reef, and can do so with only moderate annoyance from the Boat Vendors.  Holding can sometimes be difficult, and it may take several tries to get hooked.  There is no protection from the wind, which really pipes up at night.  As well, it can be a long and wet dinghy ride back to the boat after an evening out.  The Boat Vendorss can provide a very helpful taxi service for a reasonable price if you wish to avoid that.

Clifton is the one place you should really consider taking a slip at a dock, and there are two options – Anchorage Yacht Club and Bougainvilla.  Since you are likely going to have to stop anyway to top up your water tanks, there are some good reasons to leave the boat on the dock overnight.  Both docks have a 24-hour security guard who can be trusted to stay awake for most of the night.  This keeps the panhandlers and beggars away, more than protect against any real personal threat.  This option also bypasses the Boat Vendor game completely.  Anchorage provides the slip for free if you eat at their restaurant, which is a great deal because it is a great place to dine.  Both require stern-to anchoring, and I prefer Anchorage because it is easier in high winds.  Bougainvilla requires precision cross-wind maneuvering in a tight corner which can be difficult when the wind pipes up.

Erika’s Marine Services

Erika’s Marine Services is located in the beautiful Bougainvilla Complex in Clifton Harbor.  Founded by Heather Grant from Canada, Erika’s provide yachting visitors with white glove laundry service, E-Mail, Internet, fax, telephone, provisioning, bicycle rental, underwater camera rental, and a whole host of other services.  Their on-the-water representative, Fitz, cruises the harbor in a brightly painted Erika’s boat, waiting for you to flag him down or radio him on VHF Channel 68.  He does not employ aggressive sales tactics, and all the services are described and priced in a pamphlet which he hands out to visitors.  You can also drop in to their Internet Café, where office manager Chille Alexander can set you up with whatever you need.

Erika’s has become the de-facto place for most cruisers to check in for all services when visiting Union.

Anchorage Yacht Club

Charter companies have always recommended a stop at Anchorage Yacht Club. The open dining area alongside the shark pool provides a relaxed environment and a great view of the harbor.  The food is well priced and service is pleasant.  Anchorage is a great place for lunch, as they specialize in personal-sized pizzas that are not overly expensive.

Fins Up

The Anchorage Yacht Club has a pool of nurser sharks, and it’s always worth a visit.  They’re right there, no protective screens.  Just don’t fall in with them. 

You will find plenty of land sharks waiting for you at the dock, eager to take your garbage, watch your dinghy, sell you something, or take you somewhere.  This aggressive behavior permeates the village, and I have always felt a little uncomfortable over it.  A simple “No thank you” and a smile always gets you off the hook, but I continue to be astounded at the frequency of the requests.

Lambi's Restaurant

Lambi owns a restaurant, supermarket, and guesthouse, and is the “Godfather” of Union Island.  He is a folk hero in this part of the world, and no trip to Union is complete without having several beers with him, exchanging a few stories, and eating at his restaurant.  Lambi is a big boy with a big voice, and money flowing into his cash register puts a big smile on his face.  Every time I return to visit, I assure him that I am there simply to make him smile.  Naturally, I am his friend.

The restaurant is built out over the water, and is not what I would call an elegant dining facility. It is raw Caribbean at it finest, with its corrugated tin roof and steel rafters.

Lambi always has a great local buffet that’s very reasonably priced.  It’s all you can eat, and based on the fact that the bill always seems to be the same, it’s probably a flat rate for all you can drink.  The skipper’s dinner is free in parties of 4 or more.  If there are not enough guests to justify opening the full buffet, they will bring a smaller version of a buffet right to your table. 

At about 8 PM each evening, the show starts.  There is a steel drum band that plays, and these guys are excellent.  When a large number of dinner guests are present, this band will succeed in having the majority of them “jump up” and dance.  It is always a great time.  These musicians are paid only a small amount by Lambi, so be sure to leave a few dollars in the hat as a tip.

The whole experience is not what it used to be.  If the place is full, it can be a blast.  If it is not, you will be disappointed.  I sometimes opt to pop in for a few drinks after fine dining elsewhere.

St. Joseph’s House & Cottage

If you are looking for an inexpensive night off the boat, you might consider staying at St. Joseph’s.  Located on the grounds of St. Joseph’s Catholic Church up the hill past Clifton Harbor, the beautiful 2-bedroom cottage offers a stunning view of the surrounding islands and reefs.  It offers visitors to the island clean and attractive accommodations at a reasonable price.  Everything in this facility was brand new and extremely well constructed.  

Further information about the cottage, its facilities, rates, and how to book online is available on their website at www.unionisland.com.

Around the Island

A stroll through the town of Clifton is always entertaining.  You will be noticed by the locals, and you will be asked to buy something at regular intervals.  There is an art gallery as well as a number of shops, restaurants, and vegetable markets on the main street that are worth checking out.

You should definitely check out the Castello Art Centre - a combination art gallery, boutique, and bar, all set in a beautiful tropical garden.  The art of Jutta Hartmann is featured and you should not visit Clifton without stopping in to say hello.

A trek around the island is also an interesting experience.  Erika’s Marine Services has bicycles and motorized scooters that you can rent, making the hills a little easier to handle.

The town of Ashton is located on the south side of the island.  The skeletal remains of a large marina that was under construction dominates the harbor here.  Unfortunately, the money ran out for this ambitious development, otherwise Ashton would be the yachting center of the entire Grenadines.

The Running of the Bulls

Union has a dump for garbage, and if you are midway through your charter, you will need to use this facility.  A trip here is an experience in itself.  There are usually several large bulls and a half dozen pigs hanging around.  Do not be alarmed when they head briskly in your direction.  Quickly throw the fresh garbage and they will forget about you.  Do not fight them for it.

Here’s an important tip – if you separated recyclables from regular garbage, throw the garbage first, then the recyclables.  Bulls don’t like to be fooled with, and they’ll be plenty pissed if they bite into a bag of empty beer cans.