One Great Anchorage

Tyrrel Bay is probably the anchorage of choice on Carriacou.  It is home to a large number of long-term cruisers who prefer the laid-back easygoing quiet surroundings it is famous for.  Despite the number of boats, the anchorage is huge, so you do not have to be near anybody.

Getting There

Tyrrel Bay is a 40 minute motor from Hillsborough and a 3 hour close reach from the northern tip of Grenada.  The entrance to the harbor is broad.  You have to be mindful of the reef that extends out from the south shore forming a trap known as “Bareboat Alley.”  You also have to be certain to avoid the reef near the north shore that is marked by two red markers.  There is also a sunken wreck in the middle of the harbor.

While all this sounds treacherous, it is not a big deal.  Just pass close to the two mooring balls that are two-thirds of the way to the right of the harbor, and you will be fine.  Most of the cruisers tend to anchor several hundred yards offshore, so there should be plenty of room closer in.  It will also be more shallow, so you won’t require as much scope on your anchor.  The depth falls off quickly, so you can get closer to shore than you might think. 

Restaurant Sales Force

You will not be anchored for more than a few minutes before a Boat Vendor will approach your boat.  These guys are fairly civilized in that they wait for you to anchor, they are not that aggressive, plus they provide brochures that advertise their services.  Generally, they are aligned with a local restaurant, so their prime mission is to persuade you to eat there.

Troy Augustin represents The Twilight restaurant and is usually the first one on the scene.  The entertaining duo of Ritchie and Devon are never more than a few minutes behind, and are field sales agents for Scraper’s restaurant.  Several hours later, the infamous John Bedeau will row up to your boat and go through a lengthy list of things you probably don’t need or want.  John will probably enable you to learn how many times you can say the word “no” in one five minute period.  He is not aligned with any restaurant.  He has traditionally been known as the oyster king of Tyrrel Bay, although Ritchie and Devon have taken quite a chunk of his market share.

If you are interested in an island taxi tour, Troy can set it up with his brother Neil.

Oysters on the Water

One interesting and rare experience in the Caribbean is to eat raw oysters from the nearby mangrove lagoon.  Ritchie/Devon and John Bedeau will go fetch them for you, then shuck them right in front of you.  I have been coaching Ritchie, who is already quite entertaining, to expand on these skills and turn the whole affair into a real show.  I expect to hear great things about this young man over time.

Mangrove Swamp

No trip to Tyrrel Bay is complete without taking your dinghy to explore the giant mangrove swamp that reaches far back into the hills to the north of the bay.  This thing goes back a long way, so give yourself plenty of time.  Note that there is a 4 MPH speed limit here, so as not to disturb the marine life.  It gets very shallow in places, so be careful, especially during low tide.

Harvey Vale

Harvey Vale is the name of the town in Tyrrel Bay.  I have difficulty calling it a town, or even a village for that matter.  It is essentially a few houses, restaurants, and shops scattered along the shore.

Hurricane Lenny wiped out all the dinghy docks in November 1999.  The main road that follows the shore linking the village to the rest of the island was also totally destroyed.  Road re-construction should be completed by now, as well as the protective barrier for the road to prevent a future disaster.  The final phase of the project to finish the beach with protective vegetation and thatched huts should also be under way.  Restaurant owners will be rebuilding their dinghy docks sometime soon.

The Twilight

The Twilight Restaurant is my favorite in Tyrrel Bay.  It is owned and operated by Troy’s mother Diane Augustin, who cooks an excellent meal.  Great local cuisine at reasonable prices is their trademark.  The restaurant itself is a rather interesting structure, with its exposed wood and lofted ceiling.  Paintings by local artist Canute Caliste hang on the wall.  You have the choice of dining inside, or at one of the picnic tables on the front porch, overlooking the beach. 

Scraper's

The Mighty Scraper, a former Calypso King of Carriacou, owns a small and quiet restaurant along the beach called Scraper’s.  Part of his Scraper Holiday Cottages complex, the restaurant serves great local cuisine in a relaxed and comfortable setting.  Don’t expect Scraper himself to show up for an impromptu performance, despite what Ritchie tells you!