Salt Whistle Bay is probably the
most picturesque anchorage in the entire Grenadines, with its
sweeping crescent beach of white sand lined with tall coconut trees.
If there ever was a definitive paradise beach
destination, this is it. You will want to brag about this place when you return.
Bring your camera and lots of film.
The anchorage is small, and the small resort located here
will almost guarantee that you will not be sharing the beach
with a whole lot of people.
Salt Whistle Bay is less than an
hourís sail from Canouan, and about four hours from Mustique
or Bequia. It is a
little over an hour from Union, and forty minutes from
will be surprised at how tight the anchorage is and somewhat uncomfortable about how close you
are to other
boats. Understand and
accept that it is a small and very popular anchorage, so do not
come expecting to have it all to yourself. Twelve boats is
comfortable, however I have seen as many as 26 jammed in there on
very windy days when people flee the unprotected Tobago
Cays. Get there early if you want a prime parking spot.
There are reefs on each side of
the bay, so enter right down the middle.
Be careful here! Remember
that the bay is shallow, so you wonít need as much scope on
your anchor, allowing you to anchor
safely in closer proximity to your neighbors.
I have anchored close enough to the beach that Iíve been
able to jump overboard and swim ashore.
This is a great spot to pull up
a cooler full of refreshments and a picnic basket. Watch the
afternoon pass slowly by as you recline under the shade of a
coconut tree. If
you need something from the boat, just swim out.
At the south end of the
beach near the dock, island residents have set up a number
of thatched huts from which they sell T-shirts, shells, and various kinds of local
jewelry and art. The infamous Yellow
Man hangs out on this part of the island when he is not
out hustling tourists, as this is where he conducts his beach
barbecues and cooks the lobsters he sells.
There is also a surf beach on the windward side
of the island that is
easily reached, and definitely worth exploring. If you are
so inclined, follow the beach on the windward side to Saline
Bay. The views of the surrounding islands and reef
formations make for a great outing, an experience enjoyed by only
a few visitors.
The Cross-Island Expressway
You must not visit the island
without making your way to the village
at the top of the hill. There
was a time when you had to endure the ďwrath of the pathĒ
to reach it from Salt Whistle Bay.
It featured extreme hazards such as a
very steep incline, slippery mud, broken glass, boulders, and various
free-range farm animals.
Returning to the boat late in the evening after a few too many
Rummers was always a special thrill, and for that reason, it was
not widely recommended.
2002, the Government made good on a promise to pave that path,
and Highway #2 became a reality. The road is totally
passable, even at night, despite the steep grade. This road
finally makes access to the four restaurants and services
in the village from Salt Whistle Bay totally feasible. Previously, it
was always recommended that visitors access the village using
the paved road from Saline Bay. Since Salt Whistle is the
prettier of the two anchorages, you can now stay here and have
Any of the
restaurants will send a vehicle to carry you up the hill to
dinner. Just radio them on VHF68. Bring a flashlight
for the walk home.
Salt Whistle Bay Resort
Whistle Bay Resort is one of the most unique resort properties I have seen in the Caribbean.
It has eight stone cottages scattered among the palm
trees and flowering shrubs, just a few paces from the beach.
You have to look hard to see them, and as a result, the privacy
of their guests is guaranteed. Each cottage is
individually named and features wooden shutters, ceiling fans, a
stone-built shower, and batiks on the walls.
charming stone and palm-thatched outdoor dining and bar area is set in the palm trees along the beach.
Each table is surrounded by a circular stone wall and is
covered by a thatched roof.
At night, the soft lighting creates a dining atmosphere
that is totally exotic and something that must be
food is excellent, very reasonably priced, and the service is
friendly and personal, although extremely slow.
If you wish to really enjoy yourself, accept that dinner will
take a while. You will also have to ask for the
bill at the end of the evening, another unusual quirk, so do not sit waiting for it.
Still, a fabulous dining experience.