Less Traveled Anchorage

Saline Bay on Mayreau is a somewhat less traveled anchorage for charter guests, but not because it has less to offer.  On a typical one-week charter, there simply is not enough time to visit all the anchorages, so charter companies usually recommend Salt Whistle Bay, the more picturesque of the two on Mayreau.

As a result, the broad sweeping anchorage is never overrun with charter boats fighting for a patch of water to drop an anchor in.  The beach is excellent, and access to the village is the most convenient.

Getting There

Saline Bay is less than an hour’s motor from Union Island, and about an hour and a half broad reach from Canouan.  Be very careful of Grand Col Point at the north end of the bay.  Hurricane Lenny took out the permanent marker, and the authorities have replaced it temporarily with a bleach bottle tied with a piece of dental floss.  Sometimes that is even missing.  Give this reef a wide berth.

Other than that, head right in and drop the hook.  There are two piers that you might not want to get too friendly with.  The water drops off quite quickly and there are patches of weed on the bottom.  It’s not a bad idea to go closer to shore and drop the hook in about 12 feet of water, to avoid having to let out several miles of anchor line to achieve the desired scope.  For some strange reason, cruisers do not seem to want to get too close to shore, so there will always be plenty of room closer in.  You may also need a stern anchor to correct a small bit of roll.

The concrete pier to north has a dinghy landing, but be careful tying up here.  You will need a stern anchor to keep the dinghy away from the pier, however if anything happens to it, your dinghy and motor will face a brutal pounding when they drift under the pier.  Better still, if you are up to it, beach your dinghy and lock it to a tree.

Into The Nineteenth Century

In 2001, the main pier was extended into deeper water so that the ferry boat Barracuda is able to dock.  Previously, it was necessary to move passengers and  cargo from the dock to the ferry using small water taxis.  That steep road to the village was modified in 2002 so that the grade is significantly less extreme.  The new dock and road improvements have certainly made life more convenient for the residents.  

Electricity has finally come to the island, bringing it into the nineteenth century.  The installation of the diesel generating station in Saline Bay was completed in 2003.  There was some concern that the noise and smell of diesel fumes would ruin the peace and quiet of the Saline Bay anchorage.  It hasn’t.  Despite its obvious presence, you can neither hear or smell this plant in operation.

There is now light all over the island, and the good news is that it has not taken away from the beauty and charm of this wonderful patch of paradise.  Life is substantially more convenient for the residents, and they are much happier as a result.

Your Own Beach, Almost

The broad sweeping beach of Saline Bay is a great place to spend a sunny afternoon.  The golden sand, crystal clear water, and abundant shade make it a real Caribbean treasure.  Generally, it is possible to find a spot that will be away from everybody else.  There is another beach to the north of the main pier than is never occupied by anybody, so it is still possible to have an entire beach to yourself in the Caribbean.

Near the main pier, a few of the locals have set up makeshift boutiques and sell T-shirts and jewelry.  Ladies can get their hair braided, Caribbean style.  The steep road to the village starts near there, and no trip to Mayreau is complete without a stroll through.

Generally, the low volume of charter boats at anchor makes it a fairly quiet stop, almost.  Small cruise boats and day charters will often anchor here for the afternoon, although the few passengers they discharge disappear into the village and other parts of the island. 

Coney Island South

Every Wednesday, and other weekdays during high season, a mega cruise ship arrives, drops anchor, and discharges hordes of people to shore to “get away from it all.”  Based on what I observed, these people would stand a better chance of experiencing peace and quiet by setting up a lounge chair in the middle of Times Square in New York.  You do NOT want to be here at this time.

The locals set up thousands of beach chairs, umbrellas, tables, boutiques, eateries – you name it, in an effort to separate the cruise ship guests from their money.  Disney World has nothing on this place. 

Last Updated: July 1, 2004
Copyright © 2004