This is not us.  We might feel rather grand cruising around in expensive fiberglass, but it’s a drop in the bucket compared to some of the shacks on this island.  Next to them, we are “boat people.”

This island is privately owned by the Mustique Company, which provides services to the 80 or so exclusive private villas that are owned by the ultra rich and famous.   Pretty well everybody is aware of the list of owners that includes, or has included, Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Tommy Hilfiger, and Princess Margaret.  Other famous people reputedly frequent the island.  The Company maintains very strict control on all aspects of the island in an effort to provide the kind of environment desired by the owners.  Crime here is against the law.

Visiting yachts are welcome, although the island does not specifically cater to them.  Cruise ships are definitely out, as are vessels carrying 25 persons or more.  The use of Jet Skis results in an automatic death penalty.  It’s possible that the island could be declared off-limits to the unwashed at some time in the future should the owners decide, although there is no evidence of that to date.

Getting There

Mustique is a great first-day destination when starting a trip out of St. Vincent.  You can provision, check the boat out, and be there by early afternoon following an easy 2-hour broad reach and several cold beverages.  This is a three-Rummer passage on The Usual Suspects bevy scale.

It would be substantially more difficult to reach Mustique from Canouan without a lot of pesky tacking in big waves, given the usual wind direction.   Do yourself, your spouse, and your passengers, a big favor and take in Mustique on the southbound leg of your trip.

The only navigational hazard when approaching the main anchorage of Britannia Bay is Montzuma shoal, a little more than a half mile offshore.  It is well marked with a large beacon and you do not score any points for hitting or grazing it.

In an effort to protect the delicate reef that graces the beach in Britannia Bay, The Company has set 30 or so moorings that you must use.  You can’t miss them.  Tie up and an official will be by later to collect the fee of $32 US for a minimum 2-night stay.

I have never seen any Boat Vendors here.

Britannia Bay

Britannia Bay is the only anchorage and it is stunningly beautiful.  Exquisite villas peek out from the lush foliage covering the steep hills overlooking the bay.  Lying in a hammock, cold beer in hand, and taking in all this scenery from the comfort of your yacht is one of the great experiences of the Caribbean.

Things to do 

A tour of the island is well worth doing, especially if you enjoy gawking at unaffordable real estate.  Most of the villas are well hidden, but the grounds are magnificent, and you are permitted the odd unobstructed peek free of charge.  Mick Jagger’s place, Stargroves, consists of 6 Japanese living pavilions blended into a jungle of plants and baths.  It is available for about $10K per week in low season if you’re interested.  The coconut-lined boulevard that runs in front of the multi-villa estate of Tommy Hilfiger is quite impressive. These and other fine accommodations can be viewed online at their website. Operators are standing by.

The airport is quite interesting.  The main island road runs right past the runway threshold and incoming aircraft practically take the roof right off your vehicle as they land.  It is quite unbelievable how many celebrities arrive on this island through such a seemingly makeshift facility.

Be sure to stop in at The Cotton House Resort, despite reports that it is an overpriced snooty place with an unwelcoming attitude.  You will find the grounds magnificent, the staff friendly and welcoming, and the price of lunch quite in line with what you would expect from a high-end resort.

 

 

 

The hills provide stunning views of the ocean and nearby islands.  If you want a beautiful tropical beach all to yourself, try Macaroni Beach on the windward side.  This is a great place to spend the day, so bring a picnic basket and cooler.

You can rent a “Mule” (looks like a golf cart) and truck around the steep narrow roads yourself.  Ask at Basil’s, and they can put you in touch.  The cost should come in at around $75 US for the day, in total.  Be sure your unit has brakes.  You will need them.

You will find that after about an hour, you will have seen every type of over-the-top property possible.  Twice.  It is actually cheaper and less bother to have a taxi take you around.  A local named Slim provides an excellent tour, and I strongly recommend seeking him out.  Ask for him at Basil’s.

A stroll down main street Britannia Bay is always worth the time, if you can survive an extreme case of sticker shock.  Nothing here is affordable to anyone without the surname Gates, but it’s fun to look just the same.  The purple and pink cottages have been photographed to death, so you might as well get a shot too.

The Firefly

There is one restaurant that I strongly recommend - The Firefly.  It is perched halfway up the hill and the open dining room and bar offers a commanding view of Britannia Bay.  It is part of an exquisite guesthouse owned and operated by a very friendly British couple, Stan and Elizabeth.

The Mustique Martini Club at the bar in the afternoon is one experience you simply cannot miss.  There is nothing more relaxing than sitting at the bar overlooking the bay, the ocean, and the rest of the island, sipping clever Martini creations, chatting away.   These Martinis bite – beware of dog!

At night, the view, soft lighting, and unique decor creates a fantastic ambiance and a truly enchanting dining experience.  The food is outstanding and the service is personal.  There are only 7 tables, so a reservation is recommended.  Call “Firefly” on VHF Channel 10 to book.  The walk up the hill is strenuous, however someone will pick you up at the dock with the Jeep.  Just ask when booking.  I recommend the ride up.

Later in the evening, the rich and famous have been known to show up for cocktails.   The bar layout is great and very conducive to fact re-engineering and truth reconstruction (i.e. bullshitting).   Patrick and Keith are first-class bartenders and very friendly with guests.  Stan and Elizabeth usually mingle with the crowd, although I’m wondering how much longer Stan will be able to keep up his current pace.  This is always a great time, and you never know whom you may end up entertaining.  The Firefly is always a great experience.

Basil’s Bar

Basil’s Bar is built on stilts out on the water in Britannia Bay and is quite picturesque with its bamboo and thatched roof.  It was the first establishment on the island, and was the preferred place for yachties as well as the rich and famous.  However, The Firefly seems to have wrestled some of that title away as of recent.  Basil seems to be living off a reputation that died several years ago.

The food is not great and stupidly expensive for what you get.  It does not compare to The Firefly as a fine dining experience.   It is, however, a perfect place to gather with friends, take in a beverage at Happy Hour, and applaud the magnificent sunset.  Sundowners in Britannia Bay was rated as the number one experience of my Top 15 Experiences of The Grenadines 2003.