Going Back In Time

The village is at the top of the highest elevation on the island.  From Saline Bay, the steep road is paved and the walk will take 5 minutes.  From Salt Whistle Bay, the walk up the newly-paved road will take a little longer.  Either way, it’s well worth the effort if you want to experience real traditional Caribbean living.

Some of the homes are very basic, with no glass in the windows and no running water.  Electricity is only a recent convenience.  But hey, they’re living in the Caribbean, and we’re not!   The homes of the more affluent are pretty nice.  All in all, it’s a very interesting experience.  The island’s Website shows a number of photographs of the village.

Barnyard animals, which will likely end up on your dinner plate later, roam the village.  I have walked with the cattle, goats, and chickens, but not to worry, they pay no attention to you.

The Catholic Church is perched at the very top of the hill and you should make every effort to visit.  This quaint structure is constructed of stone and has been there for years.  The Parish Priest, Father Mark Da Silva is a very friendly fellow, and it’s always a pleasure to stop in and say hello.  

 

 

 

 

There is a large water-collection trough made of stone built into the hill behind the Church that is quite interesting to see.  The view of the surrounding islands is breathtaking.  From here, you can clearly see the reef formations between the island and the Tobago Cays.  Bring your camera. 

The school is also at the top of the hill.  This two-room facility provides for the entire primary educational needs of the tiny population.  Behind the school is the road leading to Salt Whistle Bay, and about 100 yards to the left is the island’s graveyard.  It is interesting to note the names and dates on the tombstones.  Yes, this is a small community.

Electricity arrived on the island in the spring of 2003.  Street lighting is everywhere, as are lights in the windows of homes.  Private diesel generators finally sit quiet.  This has made living on the island significantly more convenient, without destroying any of its rustic charm.

The village has 3 very small grocery stores, and they are not anything like what you might be familiar with.  There are four great restaurants in the village.  All serve excellent and reasonably priced local food.

Dennis’s Hideaway

Dennis was the first on the island to set up shop.  He opened a guesthouse, restaurant, bar, and supermarket in the village, and it quickly became popular with visiting yachties.  Dennis is a real piece of work, and a chat with this most entertaining character should be on your “to-do” list!  I have run into him in bars all over The Grenadines, and he always has some new story to tell.  There’s no admission charge to any of his shows, so it’s one of the best entertainment values around.

Dennis has a Barefoot 44 sailboat, acquired in February 2000 from Barefoot Yacht Charters, after his 39-foot sailboat washed up on the beach in November 1999 as a result of Hurricane Lenny.  He uses it to escort hotel guests on special hotel/sail vacation packages.  What a deal – his visitors stay at a great guesthouse on a beautiful Caribbean Island, and be escorted around various anchorages in The Grenadines by a local folk hero!

Unfortunately, his restaurant and bar burned to the ground last year.  Reports are that he is still serving food from a room in the guest house, but it is not he same.  Hopefully, he will rebuild soon and continue to charm the many visitors who make their way.

J & C Bar and Restaurant

Run by a very nice couple, Jean and Claude, I have been advised by reliable sources that this establishment serves an excellent dinner, although I have yet to eat there.  I have met Jean on the beach selling T-shirts over at Salt Whistle Bay, and have promised to make it in on my “next” trip.  So many places…so little time…

Island Paradise

I am particularly fond of Island Paradise, and I personally recommend it.  The restaurant is owned by James Alexander, who is a very nice fellow, and you owe it to yourself to plan an evening here.  The Creole conch is absolutely the best I’ve ever tasted, and the whole affair is very reasonably priced.   The skipper’s meal is free with parties of 4 or more.  The food is made from scratch, so it could take an hour or so after ordering.  We usually venture up the hill during the day, have a beer, reserve a table, and order the food then.  That way, dinner is almost ready when we arrive later.

If you are concerned about walking up the hill in the dark, don’t worry, James will pick you up and drop you off in his truck.  Make arrangements when you reserve, and radio the restaurant when you are ready - he will pick you up from either anchorage.  The ride up and down the steep road sitting in the back of the truck is an adventure in itself.  If you plan to walk down the road at the end of the evening, be sure to bring a flashlight.

The real treat about this restaurant is chatting with James.  He will often sit with you after your meal and chat for hours.   He is a most pleasant gentleman, well traveled, and his insights and stories on the Caribbean are most compelling.  

Father Mark Da Silva, the Parish Priest, has been known to stop in at the restaurant from time to time.  Father Mark is equally pleasant and his insights into the lives of the local community are also worth hearing.  I have learned a great about the local people and their culture through these chats.  An evening of conversation with these two wonderful gentlemen is indeed one of the great Caribbean Experiences.

Righteous & de Youths

Another absolute must is to spend some time with Robert “Righteous” Lewis at his restaurant and bar, Righteous & de Youths.  Robert is a well-known Rastafarian, a well-respected community leader, and you could not find a more pleasant and gracious host.  He loves to sit with you and chat, sharing with you some insights on the local community.  He lives to party!!!  Robert is well traveled; his colorful stories form the basis of a night’s entertainment at this most comfortable hangout.

As a community leader, Robert is especially concerned for the welfare of the children on the island – hence the name of his restaurant, “de Youths” are the children of the island.  Robert actively takes a lead role in community efforts that further enhance the lives of the young people.  He welcomes them in to his restaurant, and you can often see a dozen or more of them there to see “Uncle Robert”.

Robert has a pickup truck and will also come and get you so that you do not have to walk up the hill.  You can radio the restaurant on Channel 68 to reserve a table and make arrangements for pickup.  The bar is dedicated to the life of Bob Marley.  This becomes obvious right away by the posters on the wall and the reggae music they play.  The food is excellent by all standards, so a night out dining and partying with Robert is one of the great Caribbean Experiences.