Canouan was a traditional Caribbean island with very little outside influence, until a few years ago when the ultra-exclusive Carenage Bay Beach & Golf Club was constructed.  Now renamed the Raffles Resort, it consumes half the island, playing host to very well-heeled vacationers from all over the world.  This is an impressive piece of real estate, with equally impressive room rates.

Originally promised by politicians and developers to make a significant difference to the island economy in the form of mass employment, it seems that once the construction phase of the project was complete, that promise has failed to materialize.  Relatively few islanders have been hired to work at the resort, and well-armed security forces had been brought in at one time to safeguard the property from demonstrations of protest.

Resort owners have seemingly convinced American Airlines to abandon St. Vincent and land at the newly-built Canouan airport instead, making it the airline hub for the country.   Fly-in guests are quickly whisked through the village to the well-protected resort, where they stay.  Islanders keep well away from the property, and little has changed in the form of local prosperity.  It seems that this is yet another example of property development in the Caribbean that depends on expropriating land under false pretenses, then constructing a wall around the place to keep out the locals.

The Moorings have made Canouan their Grenadines base following the closure of their facility in Grenada.  Plans are in the works for a permanent breakwater and marina, which will make a significant difference.  In the interim, this facility can be somewhat challenging to operate from during periods of heavy northeast groundswell.

Essentially, there is not really much in Canouan for the cruising visitor.  This anchorage is probably the least interesting one in The Grenadines.  If you are short of time and have to prioritize, this is probably the island to miss.  If you have loads of time, you could schedule a stop here to break up your northbound trip, shortening the sail to Bequia from the southern Grenadines.

Getting There

Canouan is an easy three-hour broad reach from Bequia or Mustique.  It is a one hour close reach or close hauled trip from Salt Whistle Bay, Mayreau.

Charlestown Bay is the main anchorage, and navigation is easy because it is well marked with red and green buoys.  While you can anchor, it is recommended that you take one of the white moorings in front of the Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club.  There is a $15 US charge for this that will be collected by Marcus Ice Man Williams, the only Boat Vendor in Canouan.

The island has some very high hills and Charlestown Bay is well protected from the prevailing easterly winds.  As a result, you may find it difficult to get any ventilation in the boat.  You will also find the strange winds and currents spin your boat around in odd directions if you are anchored.  Wicked groundswell from the north can sometimes add unnecessary excitement to your stay.  Being parked on a mooring is a good idea for these very reasons.

Attractions

Canouan is a very traditional Caribbean island, and as a result, a walk through the village at Charlestown Bay is like a trip into the past.  You could also arrange to have Ice Man drive you around the island.  Now that the resort consumes half the real island’s estate, the whole trip will not take more than 45 minutes.  You will take in some great views of the beach on the windward side of the island from the highest peak, as well as the new airport terminal, shown below.

If you are particularly adventurous, you might pop into one of the local establishments for an afternoon beer.  Annie’s Rooftop Bar is right in the village, and is perched on the second floor of a house.  It is open to the breezes, and is a great place to spend the afternoon chatting with some of the locals, who I have found to be particularly friendly on this island.

 

Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club

The Tamarind Beach Hotel and Yacht Club has reopened following a closure of several years.  The Palapa is an enchanting outdoor restaurant under one of the thatched roof buildings that features an open kitchen with an open flame grill.  The food is excellent and well priced.   Pop over to Pirates Cove bar afterward for a nightcap, hopefully one of the local bands will be playing.

R & C Bar & Restaurant

Roland (Cornell) and his mother Catherine operated this surprising gem just up the hill past the Tamarind for many years.  Generous helpings of some of the finest local cuisine you will ever experience were their specialty.  Sadly, Catherine passed away this past year.  Her culinary talents and charm will be sadly missed.

The family has chosen to continue operating, and Roland still makes his rounds in the anchorage late in the afternoon to advertise the restaurant, book your reservation, and take your dinner order.  Just sit back, have a cocktail, and he will find you.