Touring the “Isle of Spice”

There is no question that a complete overland tour of this beautiful island is a must.  You cannot travel to Grenada and miss the experience of the mountains, waterfalls, villages, rainforests, and spices.

Numerous bus tours are available, with varying degrees of coverage, at various prices.  I recommend the full day tour that takes you completely around the island.  It is well worth the money as this is a big island with plenty to experience.  Take the day and enjoy yourself.  You will be in for a real treat.

Alternatively, you can hire a taxi at $20 US per hour to take you to all the destinations on the bus tour.  You gain the advantage of setting your own schedule, you can omit the sights you are not interested in, and add others as you see fit.  For larger parties, it will probably be less expensive per-person than the bus tour.

Such tours can be arranged wherever you are anchored.  There is always a “resident” taxi driver at each anchorage, plus the restaurants are always eager to help out.  Set the price and route in advance so there are no surprises.  Reuben, a very friendly Rastafarian, is the resident at True Blue Bay, and can be counted on for a good tour of the island.  Rochel (Rock) Charles, Keith Alexander, and Henry’s Safari Tours are all reputable drivers who offer an excellent tour.

Now, if you choose the full island tour, it is essential that you allow 7 or 8 hours to complete it.  Do not attempt it in less time because the island is bigger than you think, and the driver may compensate for the time shortfall by pressing harder on the accelerator.  You will probably be scared to death as you whip around blind narrow turns at the speed of light.  I have written a detailed account of such an experience on this website.

The map below shows the route I recommend.  The main points of interest are circled in blue.  Click on these circles for a description of what each point has to offer, or read on for a complete description of them all.

Grand Anse

Grand Anse is home to the tourist resorts because of the fine golden sand beach that lines the emerald shore.  It is most certainly one of the nicer beaches in the Caribbean. Given the rich abundance of sights and sounds on the island, an all-inclusive holiday at one of the resorts here would be a better value than many other Caribbean destinations.

I recommend returning to spend a day on this very beach, as described in the Grand Anse section of this website.

St. George’s

Your tour will whisk you quickly through the streets of St. George’s, but you must come back another day and experience it on foot.  The sights and sounds are described in more detail in the St. George’s section of this website.

Concord Falls

A few miles off the main road on the west coast of the island, up a steep, narrow, and treacherous road, lies the lowest of the triple cascading Concord Falls.  The island prides itself on its waterfalls, and it’s easy to understand why, once you’ve seen them.  This is a very popular swimming, camping, and tourist spot, with decent facilities servicing the swimming area. 

Another cascade is a good twenty minute hike up the river bank, but worth the effort because it is more beautiful and less visited.  There is a 40 foot section that plunges through the trees into a pool.  Here is a great opportunity to swim in that waterfall-fed mountain pool you have always dreamed of.  Be sure to remember to bring your swimwear and plan for some extra time.   There is a third cascade higher up the mountain, but it requires two hours of further hiking, so you won’t have time.

Gouyave

The drive along the winding road that snakes its way up Grenadas west coast passes through some of the islands most picturesque areas.  There are numerous small fishing villages set at the entrance of mountain valleys that abound with lush vegetation.

 

Gouyave is the major fishing port on the west coast, a town that is open for business 24 hours a day because of the odd hours associated with various aspects of this industry.  There is something on the go any time of the day or night in this bustling town.

 

Grenada is one of two countries in the world that produces nutmeg.  One of the island’s three Nutmeg Processing Plants is found in Gouyave.  You cannot come to the “Isle of Spice” and miss a tour of this plant.  

Caribs Leap

Carib’s Leap, or Leaper’s Hill, is just a few steps north of the town of Sauteurs on the grounds of the Catholic Church.  It is essentially a 100 foot cliff that descends directly into the sea.  Rumor has it that Grenada’s last remaining Carib Indians hurled themselves off this cliff in 1651, choosing suicide over French domination.

Lake Antoine National Landmark

Many many years ago, a volcano erupted and left a crater that has since sunk into the landscape and filled with water.  This crater now forms the shallow lake known as Lake Antoine.  The water contained within is black.  It is worth a quick stop to have a look at this landmark.  There is also a perimeter trail that is an excellent attraction for birdwatchers.

River Antoine Rum Distillery

No other distillery in the Caribbean has been in operation as long as River Antoine, and few have so carefully maintained traditional methods of rum preparation.  Rivers Rum has been made here since 1785, and is now one of the more expensive brands on the island.

A guided tour is a must.  Cane is crushed in an ancient machine driven by a huge water wheel.  The runoff liquid is boiled in large vats, then poured into open fermenters to allow the natural yeast in the air to start fermentation.  After a week, the brew is mixed and finally distilled.  The result is a viciously powerful overproof product that tastes exactly like paint thinner, but with a surprisingly pleasant molasses aftertaste that stays with you for hours.  I can understand why it’s popular, despite its strength. 

The Grenada Explorer and Caribbean Connexion websites have more information on this fascinating landmark.

Pearles Airport

Not listed on any bus tour is a short side-excursion to the old international airport at Pearles.  The road empties right onto the main runway that ends at the beach on the eastern side of the island.  The old terminal building is still standing, barely.  There are a few old Russian aircraft left by the Cubans when they bailed in 1983 during the American Invasion.  The online detailed accounts of the activities at Pearles Airport during Operation Urgent Fury are quite fascinating.

Grenville

Grenville is Grenadas second largest city, located halfway up the islands windward eastern shore.  It is home to Grenadas largest nutmeg processing factory.  As with the plant in Gouyave, tours are available.  If you are fortunate enough to be passing through on a Saturday, the market is worth a quick stop, as local farmers, fishermen, and merchants gather to sell everything from fresh produce to local handicrafts.

Grand Etang Forest Reserve and Crater

Grenadas Central Mountain Range are volcanic and rise to over 2000 feet. At the top of the second highest peak is the Grand Etang Forest Reserve, Grenadas premier nature park.  The Visitors Center on the main road provides a great introduction to the islands indigenous wildlife, vegetation, forestry, history, and culture. The Center is also the starting point for many of the walks, hikes, and treks that can be taken through this stunningly beautiful area.  If you intend to take in one of these great eco-tours, it is recommended that you dedicate an entire day, as you will not have time to add it to the island tour.

The Reserve contains a number of ancient crater basins, one of which holds a large crater lake, Grand Etang.  The lake is over 1700 feet above sea level, and is surrounded by some of the islands most beautiful rainforest.  It is well worth a quick stop, but be aware that the air temperature at this altitude is substantially colder than at sea level. You will also be in the clouds.

The road that leads from Grenville up the steep mountain to the Reserve, and back down into St. George’s is an attraction unto itself.  You will experience surprising and stunning views of the surrounding valleys as you pass through dense rainforest vegetation.  The road is steep, tight, and winding, so be prepared for a bit of a hair-raising drive. 

Seven Sisters Falls

The Seven Sisters Trail passes by seven of Grand Etangs beautiful mountain waterfalls, nestled in the pristine emerald vegetation of the rainforest.  You can stop and visit one or two of the cascades, or take an organized one day eco-tour by bus dedicated to experiencing all seven.  The trail itself takes about three hours and is difficult, even for experienced hikers, however the Seven Sisters are well worth the effort. Expect a lot of mud on the trail.

In Conclusion

There is no question that Grenada rivals any Caribbean island for its natural beauty.  This suggested itinerary should provide you with a sense of confidence that you are not missing anything.   Plan to complete the island tour early in your vacation schedule.  You will likely discover something along the way that will be of special interest, and will want to return to spend more time.

All in all, a day touring the island of Grenada is definitely one of the great Caribbean experiences!

 

Last Updated: February 1, 2001
Copyright © 2001