The Hog Island anchorage is considered by the
long-term cruising establishment to be the crème-de-la-crème of
anchorages for
those who want to get away from it all. Unfortunately the place is jammed with cruisers wanting to
get away from it all.
It’s like Hong Kong Harbor.
I have heard that Hog Island has
been sold to a wealthy foreign interest, and that plans for a
5-star resort are in the works. Bulldozers, clear-cutting,
and concrete will soon replace the undeveloped shoreline of
mangroves.
Grenada is the last windward
island stop for cruisers en route to Trinidad and South
America. Consequently, it is home to a rather large
population of long-term cruisers at certain times of the year,
and many of them end up anchored at Hog Island. Specifically,
cruisers begin heading north after hurricane season ends in
November, or south in July, just before it begins.
Between Prickly Point and Hog
Island lies some of the most grisly water
anyone would want to encounter while on vacation.
The southern coast of Grenada seems to funnel all the
prevailing wind and current into this shallow patch of water.
Steep choppy waves and extreme current are the result, making
the upwind, up-current passage, somewhat uncomfortable.
The decision to proceed to the Hog Island from points west must be weighed
carefully.
The initial approach to Hog
Island from the south is the same as for Mt. Hartman
Bay. Both are protected by a number of reefs, some
of which are marked. Buoys have gone missing and the rest
are all the same color as a result of birds. Basically,
follow the buoys from Tara Island and turn right when you get to
the one that was originally red/green. Unfortunately, you
will almost have to be aground to get close enough to tell if
you spotted the right one. The first time through, it will
be an interesting challenge trying to determine exactly where
you are.
Once you turn right, you will
have to go around a large unmarked reef to your left before
entering the anchorage. Just pay attention, stay in the
darker colored water, and you will be OK. Once you’re
there, pick a spot and drop the hook. There are a lot of
boats anchored here, but it’s a big harbor. Resist the
urge to take your boat through the cut into Clarkes Court Bay -
you’ll never make it.
This is a well protected
anchorage, considered a good Hurricane Hole by many long-term
cruisers. In fact, when Hurricane Joyce threatened Grenada
in the summer of 2000, most of the cruising community was
locked down in this very spot.
Hog Island is just a mile or so
by dinghy from Mt. Hartman Bay, so you could dinghy from there
if you just want to check it out. Conversely, if you
were anchored at Hog Island, you could dinghy over to the Moorings
base at Mt. Hartman Bay for provisions if necessary.
The main attraction with this anchorage is that
there are no attractions. No facilities, restaurants,
beach, nothing. This is particularly appealing to
long-term cruisers who just want to be away from
civilization. Unfortunately, a great many cruisers
feel that way, making the anchorage something of a small
cruising town. There is a thriving social scene, where
cruisers entertain each other aboard their boats.
The shoreline
on the eastern side is lined with mangroves. There is
a very small beach on the southeast corner of the anchorage
tucked away in the trees that is home to a very primitive Tiki
bar with a thatched roof. Every day, a local named
Roger stops by and opens up for a few hours. Cruisers
make their way for Happy Hour that begins promptly at 5 PM,
or whenever Roger shows up. On Sunday afternoons, the
property turns into a giant pot-luck barbecue that attracts
cruisers from all over. Parking is limited.