By Robert Charuk

Threat, What Threat?

A few years ago, I wrote an article (Coping With Hurricanes) that described how I, as a boat owner, cope with the threat of hurricanes.  I discussed the whole process, and despite all the possibilities of a threat, pretty much dismissed the reality of it affecting me.  Four years of watching hurricanes in the Caribbean lead me to believe that such storms could not form as far south as St. Vincent and the Grenadines.

Well, 2004 was the year that defined a whole new reality.

Rob Meet TD #9

On Wednesday morning, September 1, 2004, while performing my routine review of the National Hurricane Center’s Atlantic Tropical Weather Discussion, I noticed a very large cloud formation and low pressure area that had been expunged from the west coast of Africa and into the Atlantic.  It was huge.  There was enough moisture and energy in that formation to cause some serious damage, however I was pretty certain that whatever formed would dissipate because it was so far south (9 degrees N, at 21 degrees west).

Twenty four hours later, the National Hurricane Center declared the formation of Tropical Depression #9.  With that, the games began.

The Birth of a Monster

TTAA00 KNHC DDHHMM
BULLETIN TROPICAL STORM IVAN ADVISORY NUMBER 3
NWS TPC/NATIONAL HURRICANE CENTER MIAMI FL
5 AM AST FRI SEP 03 2004

...IVAN FORMS OVER FAR EASTERN ATLANTIC...NINTH NAMED STORM OF THE 2004 SEASON...

The center was uncomfortably far south, 10 degrees N, 1800 miles east of the Windward Islands, but with an initial track of 275 degrees, it would pass to the north of my interests.

I was coping quite well so far.

Turn, Turn, Turn!!!

For three days, I watched as each new Bulletin explained that a ridge of high pressure over the Atlantic prevented the storm from turning to the north.  Each new Bulletin declared that it would turn north, “any time now.”  One Bulletin had it passing over Martinique, well to the north.  A later Bulletin had it over the north tip of St. Lucia.  A little closer, but nothing to worry about.  A later track was over the south tip of St. Lucia.  This storm now had my full attention.

Ivan had also grown quickly into a major Category 3 hurricane.  The Tropical Prediction Center was amazed that such a powerful storm could form at such a low latitude.  They were using such phrases as “never in recorded history”, and “wow, this is amazing.”  Why was I not impressed?

When Bulletin #16 predicted it would pass over the middle of St. Vincent, I  became “very” concerned.  I contacted Barefoot Yacht Charters to find out their plans for the fleet.  I was advised that they decided to leave the fleet on Barefoot’s hurricane moorings, rather than risk moving it to an anchorage they had less control over, relying solely on anchors.  We knew from 2002 (Tropical Storm Lili) that the hurricane moorings could easily withstand Category 1 conditions.  Given that winds drop off significantly from the eye of the storm, we were counting on a near-miss, riding it out on reliable equipment.  A sound plan.

I was still coping.

Direct Hit Predicted

I saved this from the Tropical Prediction Center Hurricane Ivan Discussion #18 so I could laugh about it later.  I saw no humor in it at the time.

FORECAST POSITIONS AND MAX WINDS

INITIAL  06/2100Z 11.6N 55.3W 90 KT
12HR VT 07/0600Z 12.3N 58.1W 100 KT
24HR VT 07/1800Z 13.2N 61.5W 105 KT

36HR VT 08/0600Z 14.0N 64.4W 110 KT
48HR VT 08/1800Z 15.0N 67.4W 115 KT


[Click on diagram for full size image]

www.stormcarib.com has a tool that calculates how close the eye will pass to a specific point.  That tool predicted the eye of Category 3 Hurricane Ivan would pass .6 miles to the north of my boat in 20 hours.  There was no way Suspects would survive a direct hit.  This was going to leave a mark.  I was suddenly not coping very well.

I began to wonder why Ivan was NOT turning north.  A quick look at the weather chart revealed the answer.  A huge ridge of high pressure over the lower North Atlantic, extending pretty much from Africa all he way back to Louisiana, was keeping Ivan from turning north.

Why then, after 18 successive Bulletins failed to deliver on a more northerly path, coupled with a SOLID ridge of high pressure, would the Tropical Prediction Center think it would do that anything different?  

Computer models.

Don’t Turn, Don’t Turn, Don’t Turn . . . Please!

I sent the following note off to Barefoot.

I agree that moving the boats south is not the way to go. The most recent forecast has the NPA at 13.2N 60.7W which is a few miles north of you - the worst possible scenario. However, the ridge that keeps adjusting the forecast more south appears stronger, and my gut feel on this is that the storm won’t go  north at all. I think it will end up right over Grenada, and not  intensify as they say. We’ve seen this before, but then again, I’m no expert.”

Now I didn’t want it to turn north at all.  I wanted as much distance between my boat and Ivan as possible.  I was not optimistic, given my past cavalier attitude towards hurricanes in the Grenadines.  I was certain I was going to be punished heavily for being so smug all these years.  I went to sleep that night hoping for a break. 

I awoke at 2:30am and checked the forecast.  No change.  I quickly sent off another note to Barefoot:

My insurance covers hurricanes, right?”

Coping?  No way.  I was falling apart.

No, This Is Not Just A Dream

I was up very early the next morning to check the forecast.  The strangest thing had happened.  Overnight, Ivan had inexplicably subsided a little and taken a hitch southward.  Yes, southward.  The new forecast had Ivan tracking through Grenada, 75 miles to the south.  Ha! I had predicted that!  


[Click on diagram for full size image]

Since hurricane force winds were to extend out 70 miles, we would only experience tropical storm force, and the equipment had lived through that before.   I could not believe this.  I was somewhat relieved that The Usual Suspects would live, live to probably face another hurricane sometime in the future.

Communications with Barefoot pretty much tapered off to zero at this point.  The boats were prepared, and staff had gone home to fend for themselves and their families.  I was advised that we were not out of the woods yet, as St, Vincent was still in the northern quadrant of the storm, the most deadly, and anything could still happen.  I spent the day checking correspondent reports on www.stormcarib.com.  I describe this as the “pins and needles” method of coping.  I really thought my number was up.

The storm went through that afternoon and communications from the islands dropped off to near-zero.  A few managed to keep their computer equipment running on UPS, and provided updates.  I actually learned that The Usual Suspects was OK indirectly through one such update.  One correspondent went out for a drive near the Blue Lagoon and spoke with a security guard at one of the charter companies, who reported that he had nothing to report.  I quickly figured out it was the guard at Barefoot, and his lack of excitement meant the fleet was safe.  I was suddenly coping with this whole thing a little better.

It was only next morning when I received an official note from Barefoot confirming that the fleet had survived completely intact.

It’s a Nightmare

At the same time I experienced my personal wave of relief, reports on  www.stormcarib.com were beginning to trickle in, describing the devastation experienced by Grenada.  I could not believe the vocabulary people were using.  Words such as trashed, leveled, totaled, destroyed were used extensively in those reports.  I suddenly felt real bad that I had, up until then, only thought of my own interests.  The bigger picture was horrifying.

No electricity.  No water. No communications.  90% of the roofs in St. Georges blown off. Stone structures collapsed.  Trees down everywhere, and in some cases, totally denuded.  The nutmeg crop destroyed.  Airport damaged and closed.  Power lines down everywhere.  Roads inaccessible.  Debris everywhere.  The Prime Minister’s home leveled. Emergency Operation Centre leveled.  The prison lost its roof and 400 inmates were at large.  Looting of stores was rampant.  85 boats at Spice Island Marine toppled over.  Hundreds more boats aground or sunk, as the entire Caribbean long-term cruising fleet was holed up there.


Aerial view of Spice Island Marine - Internet photo - origin unknown

But wait, there’s more.

Ivan picked up steam as it departed Grenada, becoming a full Category 5 hurricane.  It scared the crap out of the ABC islands, who have never had to learn to spell hurricane, let alone experience one.  It then threatened a direct hit on Kingston Jamaica as an extremely dangerous hurricane for several days before, get this, miraculously taking an unexpected hitch to the southwest for no obvious reason.  Prayers, people concluded, were the reason Jamaica was spared.  But was it?  Tell that to the people of Portland Cottage who lost their homes and several lives to storm surge flooding.

Then there was the low-lying Cayman Islands.  Storm surge completely crossed the island of Grand Cayman, flooding every single home, severely damaging well-constructed property that somehow managed to survive the direct hit of  155 mile per hour winds.

Western Cuba was spared as the monster deked left, before setting its sights on the mother lode - the Florida panhandle.  At least Ivan had the courtesy to spare the people devastated by Charley and Frances.  Fortunately, it weakened before making landfall.. 

Flooding from rainfall caused billions in damage to the southern States before the storm headed up the eastern seaboard.  One would have expected that Ivan’s energy would have been spend by then but no, it somehow managed to claim the life of a sailor in Connecticut.  Ivan hung on long after the press got tired of it, and wreaked havoc on eastern Canada and Newfoundland, killing two more fishermen there.  The National Hurricane Center issued its last Bulletin on September 17, finally declaring the demise of this vicious beast.

You Just Won’t Believe This

Five days after declaring Ivan dead, remnants of the storm that detached itself from the main part festered on the eastern seaboard before making its way back to the Gulf of Mexico.  There, it re-intensified.  The Tropical Prediction Center debated at length, but finally declared that Tropical Depression Ivan, and later Tropical Storm Ivan, had returned to the coast of Texas.  It did, but fortunately did not have enough energy left to take any more lives or cause much damage.

The Aftermath

The situation in Grenada was, and still is, grim.  The damage to the infrastructure was so complete that the basic essentials required to sustain life was compromised.  The total lack of communications made it nearly impossible to assess priorities and direct relief efforts.  Impassible roads made it impossible for repair crews to be dispatched where needed, and for relief supplies to be delivered.


What’s left of St. Georges - Internet photo - origin unknown

An overwhelming number of people suffered extreme damage to their homes, placing a huge demand on already scarce building supplies.  Without electricity, refrigerated foods quickly spoiled in the sweltering heat, placing a heavy demand on the remaining food reserves.  Faced with the obvious complexities of delivering food to a remote island, there was looting of grocery stores and relief supplies as people panicked over the possibility of starvation.  When you see honest people resorting to looting, that is the sign of exactly how desperate the situation is.  Convicts from the prison roamed the streets for several days before being recaptured.

Without running water or sewage facilities, residents continue to face serious gastrointestinal illnesses as a result of e-coli.  Without roofs, it will not be possible for people to refill their cisterns during the rainy season, so water shortages in April of next year are imminent.


Panorama of the damage - Internet photo - origin unknown
[Click on photo for full size image]

Businesses have been totally destroyed.  A vast majority of sole proprietors operated on a narrow cash basis, and certainly do not have cash reserves to reconstruct their facilities.  Insurance, what insurance?  For them, the nightmare is just beginning, as there will be no way to earn an income in the coming months.

I almost forgot - the boats.  They seem so insignificant now.  Looking at the photos, the cruising fleet of some 600 boats was substantially damaged, run aground, or sunk.  Without question, insurance costs for boats in the Caribbean will soar over the next few years to cover this.  Expect some of these costs to be passed on to charter guests.


More damage - Internet photo - origin unknown

The loss of boats will affect businesses throughout the entire region for a long time to come.  One boat, yes one, was reported in the Tobago Cays over the past weekend.  Project this lack of market potential to businesses operated by the Boat Vendors, local shops, supermarkets, chandleries, and restaurants.  They will struggle over the next year.

What Can We Do?

We can and should help.  We drop in on this little paradise from time to time.  If we want it to be there the next time, we need to help.  They do not have the resources to recover from this disaster on their own.  We do.

In the short term, the relief organizations need money.  It is the most transportable, most flexible form of aid, and one form that YOU can provide, right now.  Please go to the Caribbean Disaster Emergency Response Agency (CDERA) website to find out how you can help:

http://www.cdera.org

In the longer term, there is a tendency for visitors to stay away from places that have been damaged. Why go spend your hard-earned vacation dollars in a place that isn’t quite a perfect paradise?  Because the quickest way to return it to that state is to restore the economy to a state of prosperity.

It won’t be as bad as you think.  There is a full-time disaster-relief team working on this round the clock.  Their progress is reported daily on www.stormcarib.com.   Much of the debris that littered the island has already been cleaned up, or will be cleaned up soon.  Vegetation that was destroyed will grow back within a few weeks - it is a rainforest island!  Displaced beach sand will quickly finds its way back.  Resort hotels and restaurants that were partially damaged are quickly being repaired.  Infrastructure will be back online within a month.  The sun is still hot and the trade winds are still refreshing.  The beer has been restored to its normal cold state.

If you were planning to vacation in Grenada this season,  do not cancel your plans.  They will be able to accommodate you.  It might not be perfect, but it will be interesting.

Coping

My coping with hurricanes is a drop in the bucket compared to what the local residents face.  My view of what it means has changed significantly as a result of what happened this year.  I will never look at it quite the same way any more.

Instead, I will cling to my insurance policy, cross my fingers, and pray for the good people who really have to cope with hurricanes.

* * *

The End

Last Updated: October 1, 2004
Copyright © 2004