All previous trips to The Grenadines have been with the original Prime Suspects.  The focus has been primarily around the acquisition and dissemination of fiction, with a premium placed on embellishment of facts.  Consequently, the choice of anchorages and extra-curricular activities were centered around this form of recreation.  We needed a place to tell stories and an audience to listen.  No need to elaborate further.

Since the crew for this trip consisted of two couples, a slight change in strategy became necessary.  I’m not saying that this crew does not enjoy a good yarn, however I was certain that they would want to explore a different range of activities.  Basically, the more picturesque anchorages would be more appealing than the more socially-oriented stops.  After all, their objective was to get away from it all and be with each other.  Finding other people to play with was not on their Top Ten list.  I determined that longer stops at Mustique, Salt Whistle Bay, Tobago Cays, and Bequia would be more appealing, so I shortened the Union and Saline Bay excursions.  I also planned for a “floater” day, and held PSV, Palm Island, and Chatham Bay in reserve. 

I had a basic idea how long we would want to spend at each anchorage.  I developed a suggested itinerary that allowed us to visit most of the preferred spots, but did not hold us to any of them.  If I hadn’t, we probably would have spent the whole 13 days at the first place we anchored and missed out on the rest.  The itinerary loosely positioned the boat so that we could basically go anywhere we wanted, whenever we wanted, without feeling that we were under any pressure.  During the trip, I kept a close watch on everybody’s mood, and suggested alternatives that we all agreed on.  It was really very relaxed and we did not feel like we were even on a schedule at all. 

Despite the fact I have cruised The Grenadines quite extensively, the new crew and priorities allowed me to rediscover some anchorages and try out some new experiences that I might not have considered.

Mustique, Wow!

Previous trips to Mustique have been simple - arrive late in the afternoon after polishing off several boxes of beer en-route, have dinner and way too many drinks at the Firefly that evening, wake up with a splitting headache in time to head to the next anchorage next morning.  Basically, I could have been anywhere in the Galaxy and not known the difference. I was certain it was a beautiful anchorage.  People had told me so.

Jeff and Silvia spent their honeymoon in one of the el-primo shacks on the island and wanted to spend more time on Mustique.  I thought it was a great opportunity to see what the place really looked like.  I’m glad I did.

During our first afternoon in Britannia Bay, we lounged around on the boat for several hours nursing Rummers that were expertly prepared by our Apprentice Beverage Technicians (basically, everybody on the boat, including me).   The aft swim platform was booked by Jeff and Silvia, so Dave, Julie and I piled into the dinghy and enjoyed the sunshine from there.  Yes, that’s right, we hung out on my smaller boat, taking in the emerald waters and lush green foliage of the surrounding hills.  It was magnificent.

Later that afternoon, we relocated to a very comfortable table at Basil’s.  In all the times I’ve been to Mustique, I have never set foot in the place.  It was a great idea because the experience of lounging around with a magnificent view of the harbor and surrounding hills was absolutely inspiring.   The view of the sunset from there was also spectacular, and it was a great experience to share the moment with dozens of others.  The food was not bad and not really that expensive, however it was not the same fine dining experience as the Firefly.

The Mustique Martini Club at the Firefly in the afternoon is one experience you simply cannot miss.  There is nothing more relaxing than sitting at the bar overlooking the bay, the ocean, and the rest of the island, sipping clever Martini creations, chatting away.   We spent a glorious afternoon chatting with another couple from Canada, and Keith the bartender.  These Martinis bite – beware of dog!

There is no question now that I will schedule at least two nights in this magnificent anchorage on future trips.  A stop at Basil’s and a stop at the Firefly is now a must, thanks to a wonderful experience on this trip.

Salt Whistle Bay Now Has it All

In all the times I’ve been to Mayreau, I’ve only anchored in Salt Whistle Bay once.  There is a reason for this, and that was our desire to frequent the establishments of Island Paradise and Righteous & de Youths in the village at the top of the hill.  The return trip down the path after way too many Rummers is the reason 9-1-1 was invented.  So we anchor where they are better served - Saline Bay.

I knew that this picture postcard anchorage would appeal to my guests more than Saline, so I scheduled a night there.  There is no question that this anchorage is the jewel of The Grenadines as far as scenic anchorages go.  The crescent beach of white sand lined with tall coconut trees and the emerald waters is awe-inspiring.  A lazy day lounging around on the boat, swimming, sipping cold beverages - what more could you ask for?

I had always wanted to dine at the Salt Whistle Bay Club, but never returned to Salt Whistle Bay after the first trip.  I suspected that a night out at their restaurant would appeal to my new Suspects, and I was right.  The outdoor dining experience, sitting around a stone table under a thatched roof, was enchanting.  The food was excellent, very reasonably priced, and the service friendly. 

We decided on a second night in Salt Whistle Bay.  We simply could not bring ourselves to leave.  I had originally planned a beach barbecue in the Tobago Cays for dinner, but it was beginning to look like we would not make it.  I sought out the services of the Yellow Man because I knew he hosted beach barbecues in Salt Whistle Bay.  It turned out to be an interesting experience, however it left a lot to be desired.  Yellow Man needs to clean his area up and make it real nice.  Electric lighting would not be a bad idea.  It was almost impossible to make out what we were eating in near total darkness.  Proper tables and chairs would also help.  Two of us were sick for several days, although the exact cause has not been confirmed – the barbecue is a strong suspect at this point.  Yellow Man did introduce me to barbecued Iguana – it tasted just like chicken of course.

Electricity has been planned for Mayreau for several years.  Each time I visit, I see further evidence of this reality.  Last April, I saw the plans for the project tacked up on the wall of Island Paradise Restaurant.  In November, workers had actually cleared the trees on the site and cut a path up to the top of the hill.

On Friday, February 23, 2001, a historic event occurred on the island that will change it forever.  Heavy machinery was brought in to plough that treacherous path from Salt Whistle Bay to the village at the top of the hill, making it passable by automobile.  I just happened to be there that day, and was probably the tenth person to make the trek on the new road.  Two of the island’s four motor vehicles had already driven over it, proving that they could now travel from one end of the island to another.  Highway #2 was now open.

My visit with Righteous proved that the population was beginning to understand the significance of this development.  He was now offering “pick-up” service to cruisers anchored in Salt Whistle Bay, the prettier of the two anchorages on Mayreau.  No longer do you have to move over to Saline Bay in order to frequent the establishments in the village.

I was at Yellow Man’s barbecue on the beach the first evening after the road was completed.  Five youths from the village driving one of the island’s vehicles showed up.  I asked them what they were up to.  Their response was that they were just “cruisin’”, they now could because of the new road.  I wonder how long it will take for drag racing to be introduced to the island.

With the arrival of electricity in the fall of 2001, that road will be lit and Mayreau will finally move into the 19^th Century.  It will be interesting to see how the island changes as a result of this basic service, one that we all take for granted.

Saline Bay - A Major Stop for the MoJ I, II, III, and IV

Every Wednesday, a monster cruise ship drops anchor in Saline Bay and discharges hordes of people ashore to “get away from it all.”  Based on what I observed, these people would stand a better chance of experiencing peace and quiet by setting up a lounge chair in the middle of the intersection of Broadway and 42^nd Street in New York.

The 2,485-foot Mother of Jesus IV from Gargantuan Cruise Lines was at anchor the first day we arrived.  Next morning, it was replaced by the MoJ III, and by afternoon, the MoJ I, the baby of the fleet with only 29,500 passengers on board, entered our tranquil paradise.  Of course every passenger wanted to be taken ashore at once.  I simply could not understand the attraction of this kind of vacation when I saw the lineup of guests that stretched twice around the island, all waiting to board the launch back to the boat at the end of the day.  It was not pretty.  We all signed ironclad agreements (drafted by our on-board legal counsel, Jeff) stating that we would never go on such a cruise as long as we lived.  The agreement, in my opinion, was overkill.

Union Island

In my previous Boat Boys of The Grenadines feature, I was not particularly complimentary to Union Island’s resident “bad boy”, Herman.  What if he was an Internet junkie and read that feature?  Would he express his literary dissatisfaction by removing my head at the neck, instead of the customary “two thumbs down?”  I was a bit concerned.  Upon my arrival in Clifton Harbor, I secretly pinned my hopes for survival on the possibility that he flunked out of school and was totally illiterate.   

Remembering the wise words of Michael Corleone in The Godfather, where he said, “Hold your friends close, your enemies closer”, I adopted a radical new strategy.  I would become his pal, or better still, his customer.  I actually got in my dinghy and sought him out to provide us with a good mooring.  I was right.  He was delighted that I made the effort to find HIM, and as a result, he put us on a great mooring close to Lambi’s.  I was satisfied that my guests and my boat were perfectly safe, as we were under his protective custody.

I did ask him not to accost our female guests, and he agreed.   He made a couple feeble attempts during the evening to approach Silvia and Julie, however our “prevent defense coverage”, learned from years watching NFL footbal, worked.  Later, when I was chatting casually with one of Herman’s “designated targets,” he pulled me aside and said,  “I promised not to touch your women, you don’t touch mine”.  This Boat Boy had me over a barrel.

When I left the next day, I did so with a somewhat better opinion of Herman.  In the future, I would choose to use his services because it seems to be the best way to avoid a whole lot of problems.  I look forward to the day when I don’t have to implement a complicated series of countermeasures to have a good time here.

I visited with Father Andrew at St. Joseph’s once again.  He was kind enough to offer a guided tour of Union Island by Jeep, a new experience for me.  We took the back roads to Ashton, the “other” town, basically a residential center of substantial size, but generally unknown to visitors.  Father Andrew pointed out that Union is actually a desert island (not deserted) that actually gets very little rain.  I found this difficult to believe, but after a few minutes of seeing brown scrub brush and millions of cactus, I was convinced.  I saw the windward northern shore of the island for the first time.  There were a number of beaches that, with a little work, could be developed into a fine recreational area.

Having now seen the whole island, my overall impression is that Union has been largely left alone by the outside world.  Foreign developers seem to have avoided this place.  It’s probably one of the few places left in the Caribbean this is still like that.  I predict that one day, the big money will run out of new places to buy, and Union will get its turn.  Hopefully, that development will not destroy the place in the process.