Admiral Air-Vey

It seems that the Rita Louise was not the only vessel with magnetic propellers.  On two separate occasions, Master Expert Guru Sailor Hervé (pronounced Air-Vey, but more like Air-Head) managed to foul a prop on Sharnry.  Twice.

The first incident occurred at the Palm Island anchorage, when Admiral Air-Vey, seriously distracted by a teeny-weeny-itsy-bitsy-yellow-polka-dot-bikini sunbathing on an adjacent foredeck, managed to run over the mooring and snag the painter with the prop.  Ten minutes and a very sharp knife was required to bail a very red-faced skipper out of an embarrassing predicament.  Needless to say, the bikini was not impressed. (Arnis Budrevics photo - left)

The second incident occurred in Bequia when Admiral Air-Vey instructed a crew member to watch the dinghy painter as he backed off the mooring.  That crew member watched all right, watched it go directly into the prop.  Maybe it was the French accent.  At least there was no bikini gallery this time.

Admiral Air-Vey has since been busted down to cleaning heads.  He needs to start with his own.

Power to the People

After a thousand promises and hearing “any day now” for a dozen years, Mayreau has moved into the 19^th Century.  They have electricity.  I was concerned that this advance would spoil the “old Caribbean ” feel of this island, but I am happy to report that it has not.  The people are still the same, except that they are much happier with the added convenience.  The only obvious difference visitors might experience is not having to stumble around in the street in total darkness, as streetlights illuminate the entire village.

(Arnis Budrevics photo)

This is an island on the move.  They have reported a 50% increase in automobile ownership since December!  That’s right, 50%!  J.D. Power and Associates confirms that this is the highest percentage of growth in the automobile industry anywhere in the world over the past decade.  Two additional vehicles were purchased in February, bringing the total from four to six.

Dudes Regatta Bequia - not to be confused with the Bequia Easter Regatta

Late one night in Salt Whistle Bay, and after way too many Rummers, the three skippers agreed to a race to Bequia.  Because the boats were radically different, a fair handicap system had to be implemented.  We agreed that the “fishing while towing a dinghy” provision of the ISAF Yacht Racing Rules (2003 Edition) would apply.  Sharnry was required to tow two dinghies because of its long waterline, and everybody had to have a fishing line in the water.  As per Rule 97.3, each boat would earn ten minutes of corrected time per inch of fish caught.  Catch yourself a big Wahoo and you were going to the World Championship baby!

We were allowed to recruit locals and one professional was allowed per boat, as specified in the rules for Caribbean Cruising Division II.  I recruited Elmo, chef at Righteous and de Youths, while Sharnry already had Free Willy.  Round Man called tactics, as shown with a beer in his hand in the photo at left.  When Rita Louise elected to go it alone, we became suspicious.  (Arnis Budrevics photo - left)

In the end, we hooked a Jeanneau 47 that ventured too close to our stern, but could not land her because we did not have a gaff large enough.  Sharnry hooked their dinghy resulting in a broken line and subsequent disqualification.  Rita Louise made a trip to the fish market and beat us all by 2 hours, corrected time.

Boat Boy Report

I did have the opportunity to meet and re-meet two great Boat Boys on this trip.  This is always a highlight for me, because these friendships offer a direct link to the interesting lifestyles the people of these islands live.  Many doors have opened as a result of these people, and I continue to appreciate that.

The first was Larsten, who I met on Tobago Cays assisting Free Willy with the beach barbecue.  His boat is called Velocity, and I had previously given that boat a very bad review in my Boat Boys of the Grenadines article as a result of three very rude proprietors.  Larsten was aware of this article and that I was the author.  Rather than chastise me over the bad publicity, he politely offered an explanation.  As it turned out, his boat was borrowed by three less-than-courteous lads who Larsten later banned from using the boat.  He explained that he could have changed the name of his boat to evade the bad press, but chose not to because he felt that he could explain.  Needless to say, I was somewhat impressed by the pride this young man had for his boat, and his willingness to stand up for his personal reputation.  We became friends instantly, and enjoyed many beers and many discussions during our stay.  (Rob Charuk photo- left)

I had actually met the second Boat Boy, Venold Williams, or Willy, several years ago, anchored at Tony Gibbons Beach in Bequia when he paddled out to my boat to sell jewelry.  Because I no longer anchor off that beach, I had not seen him since then - until this trip.  He paddled his way deep into mooring territory and we recognized each other instantly, despite the passage of time.  He continues to sell handcrafted jewelry from that tiny boat, and he is one of the nicest people you could ever hope to meet.

(Rob Charuk photo)

A final bit of unusual news.  Boat Boy Mr. Plat will not be conducting any beach barbecues for a little while.  It seems that he went for a walk down a beach with a young lady and crossed the line.  A federal judge ruled in her favor and now Plat is locked up in Kingstown serving out a nine-month term for sexual assault.  He is further banned from the tourist industry for an additional year.   

Borkumriff IV

If I were to contract “two-foot-itis” and upgrade my boat, two feet at a time, every few years, I would be 276 years old before being the proud owner of this puppy.  

My next boat – Borkumriff IV – an impressive 166 foot schooner, at anchor in Admiralty Bay, Bequia.   (Arnis Budrevics photo)

I dream of having the water capacity to do this... (9,568 liters, can make 24 cubic meters per hour)  (Arnis Budrevics photo)

Fotomon

Thanks to Arnis and Danny, nearly every moment of the trip was captured photographically.  I was advised that there were 20 minutes late one night not captured.  Arnis took 1235 shots on his 1GB chip and Danny added another 400.   Here are a few of the most memorable:

Making Sense of it All

It took several weeks back home for the whole trip to finally come together for me.  While I am down there, each day is exactly like every other day.  I drift around barefoot the entire time, shorts and bandanna, maybe sometimes a sarong.  One Rummer melts into the one that follows.  Each sunset is celebrated.  Each sunrise is greeted with a morning swim.  Each encounter with an old friend is enjoyed.  It is timeless.  My life back home is just so far away.  Only now do I fully get it.

I always return mentally refreshed.

Without question, this trip was one of the most enjoyable for me.  I had an outstanding bunch of friends on The Usual Suspects.  We laughed, sailed, ate like kings, sipped cold beverages, and generally enjoyed each others company.   Arnis and Lezli were gastronomic geniuses and of course Round Man can be my Beverage Technician any day.  I always seem to invite the right people, and that is very important for me, as it is my vacation too.  Someday soon, I am going to write an article and share the secret of picking good crew - you need to cover your bases.  (Arnis Budrevics photo - right)

I enjoyed the nonstop party atmosphere on Sharnry, with entertainment provided any time of day or night by Hervé, Stinky, Tiny, Carol, and Danny.  It was even better that this occurred on their boat, as I could simply hop in the dinghy and go home when I needed a break.  Having Free Willy vacation with us created an even stronger bond with this part of the world.

It was also a pleasure meeting and hanging out with George and his crew on Rita Louise.  While their agenda was slightly different than ours, we really enjoyed our common time together.  I kept telling them that their two close-call incidents will become legendary tales as time progresses, and they will appreciate that.  I do hope to sail with them again.

I met up with and spent time with old friends - Robert Righteous, and of course Free Willy.  We have his number and can call him in the Tobago Cays on his cell.  Then there is Mr. Plat, who we now have to visit in his cell.

Dudes Cruise II-1/2

Returning home from the trip, I had just walked through the door, when the phone rang. “We have to go back!  BVI, next November.  Are you in?” 

This never ends.

(Arnis Budrevics photo not actually taken by Arnis Budrevics)