Under Watchful Eyes

Anyone familiar with my destination write-ups on The Grenadines will be watching closely for my opinion on the BVI.  I have received enough e-mail to tell me that this report will most certainly be under a microscope.

Before I go any further, I must point out that the Dudes Cruise was my one and only experience in the BVI.  While I believe I am reasonably observant,  the fact that the trip occurred in low season was significant in that a number of important experiences were missed.  Quito’s, Foxy’s, Saba Rock, and Marina Cay were closed.  Most anchorages had three or four boats moored, and the bars and restaurants were missing the throngs of partiers that usually jam in for extended Happy Hours.  Given that the BVI are famous for these very experiences, I cannot pass myself off as an expert until I partake in them.

I feel a February trip coming on...

One Popular Destination

Without question, the British Virgin Islands are the single most popular bareboat charter and cruising spot in the Islands.  Sailors flock to this destination, and only this destination, in droves.  Reading online forums or newsgroups on the Internet, one would logically come to the conclusion that this is the only sailing destination in the Caribbean.  Telltale signs of this include statements such as “I’ve been to the BVI 487 times and I swear it’s the very best.  You mean there are other cruising destinations?  When did this happen?”

People sometimes mention that The Grenadines are reportedly beautiful, but they are actually on another planet, and you can’t get there from here anyway.  It is the BVI that repeatedly scores top marks in popularity.

It was certainly time for this Suspect to check it out in person and find out exactly what the fuss is all about.  The offer to join the Dudes Cruise was a real stroke of good fortune, because nobody knows the BVI like Hervé.

Readers Digest Comparison

I had only the Windward Islands as a baseline for comparison with the BVI.  I was informed that in comparison, the BVI was dead simple to sail, not nearly as pretty, with incredibly crowded anchorages, and plenty of bars in which to make a fool of oneself.  I figured it would be easy to write it off as the DisneyWorld of bareboating and leave it at that.

Not so.

The Drake is in fact a thousand times easier to sail than The Grenadines.  The anchorages do not quite have as much turquoise in the water, but the sandy beaches that line the shore are every bit as pretty.  Despite the fact that the total sailing area is quite small, there are a staggering number of great anchorages.  There are several truly outstanding anchorages that make my “favorites” list.

I was able to find a BVI anchorage that compared with all of my favorite Grenadines anchorages, with one exception - there is nothing that comes anywhere close to the Tobago Cays.  Instead, there were The Baths, which are a truly unique experience in themselves

BVI are significantly more developed with a higher standard of living than most of the Windward Islands.  This, along with the heavy British presence and large ex-patriot population, has taken its toll on the Old Caribbean charm, in my opinion.  People rave about the unique qualities of Jost Van Dyke and its most popular resident - Foxy.  He is however, a lone figure struggling to preserve the Old Caribbean in the face of a rapidly changing world.  Modernization and development  threatens to make experiences like Foxy a distant memory.  I hope not.

As I stated earlier, the Dudes Cruise in low season experienced empty anchorages, bars, and restaurants.  The peace and quiet was great, and the whole trip reminded me of The Grenadines!  I was simply unable to imagine an anchorage jammed full of boats, unable to get served at a bar, get a table at a restaurant, or having to fight for that last mooring.  Until I do, I probably have not totally experienced the BVI.

Drake Lake

The Drake Channel is a tiny body of water.  Very tiny.  It is extremely well protected on all sides by string of islands, and, just to make sure, there is a huge reef protecting all the islands from the Atlantic Ocean.  There is virtually no chance of seeing any form of big waves under any conditions.

Sailing the Drake is the easiest body of water you will ever navigate.  It borders on being Mickey Mouse, it’s that simple.  Flat water and no ocean swells, adjacent destinations between 30 minutes and an hour and a half apart - all can be navigated by eyeballing them or following other traffic.

Before anybody jumps all over me for trying to suggest that this is not “real sailing,” I recognize and appreciate that the ease of passagemaking makes the bareboating adventure available to many enthusiasts with less sailing experience.  Many would not enjoy themselves fighting 8 - 10 foot ocean swells offered by other destinations.  So I personally think it is a good thing, as I do not like it when heavy seas spill my beer.

I had observed many intense discussions on the Internet about navigating Drake Lake.  It had been suggested that such waters were totally impassible without the use of several GPS units linked together, fully-redundant fault-tolerant notebook computers with multiple forms of advanced navigational software, waypoints every ten feet - all plugged into NASA and tracked by NORAD.  I took these statements seriously.  Once I arrived to survey the situation, I could not believe that such recommendations were being made to handle a 35 minute line-of-sight passage.  I had heard the Drake was small; I was not expecting to compare it to an Olympic-sized swimming pool.

While I may have just annoyed many technologically advanced sailing enthusiasts, I still maintain that these waters can easily be navigated with a chart and a pair of eyeballs.  Note that I still play with all those techo-gadgets myself, not because I have to, but because it’s fun.   Lots of fun.

The Lost World

I had also read all sorts of discussion about “making the passage to Anegada” - things like “gee, it’s really tough, not sure we’ll try it this time.”  I learned that Charter companies charge first-timers money for an escort.  I had visions of an island parked halfway to Europe that required bluewater experience to reach, until I learned otherwise.

It’s twelve miles away.  That’s right, TWELVE.  It’s not just beyond the Azores.

I know that it is a low-lying island and that you cannot really see it until you are about halfway there, and that there is a reef that extends out quite a ways, but please!  On any given day, the waters to Anegada look like I-95 with all the boats traveling between.  You can follow a compass bearing (remember how to do that) and watch for other boats.  It is too special an experience to miss.

Memo to self: Go to Anegada

Highlights

There were a number of things that I found especially great about the BVI, along with some experiences I would not race back for.

• The Baths - I could not understand how a pile of rocks strewn about a beach could be so popular, until I arrived.  This stop is truly stunning, and a trip to the BVI is not complete without spending the better part of a day here.  The rocks, pools, and beach are out of this world.  The Top of the Baths restaurant at the top of the hill is worth the visit, as is a plunge in their pool to cool off.
  
  
  
  
• Deadman’s Bay - Simply magnificent.  This crescent beach lined with coconut trees surrounds the turquoise waters of a spectacular anchorage.  May it live forever in this form.
  
  
• Sandy Cay and Sandy Spit - the BVI version of Gilligan’s Island.  These delightful spots of sand are perfect for dragging a cooler full of beverages and food ashore, with the sole intention of letting the entire day drift slowly by.
  
  
• White Bay - Another unique anchorage.  Several excellent beach bars line this beautiful stretch of sand, the most famous being the Soggy Dollar Bar, home of the Painkiller.  Swim in, drink, swim out.  Repeat as necessary.
  
  
• Cane Garden Bay - I quite liked this anchorage for a number of reasons.  A number of quaint villas peeked out from the trees in the high hills surrounding the bay, the whole scene is quite inspiring.  The crescent beach is also home to a number of excellent beach bars and restaurants, my favorite of course being Myett’s Garden and Grille.  Unfortunately, Quito was closed, so I did not have the opportunity to listen to him live.

I have been told that CGB is quite poplar in high season and becomes quite crowded, almost to the point of being a turn-off.  I cannot imagine this, so until I do, I suggest enjoying it in low season.

• Savannah Bay - Anybody looking for a big, wide open, and very pretty anchorage need not look any further.  There is nothing ashore, so I suspect that it does not get too busy in high season.  Hint, hint.
  
  
• Cooper Island - Beautiful scenery with a great sunset over Tortola that is hard to beat.
  
  
• Fat Hog Bob’s Caribbean Bob-B-Q - Located a few steps away from the Sunsail base, the ribs at this place should not be missed.
  
  
• Anegada - I have heard many people are turned off by Anegada and suggest that it is not worth the passage.  I think that it because it is more like the Old Caribbean than some people are looking for.  Try it, you’ll like it.
  
  
  • Big Bamboo at Loblolly Bay - A great day trip.  Take the bus and hang out at the Bamboo, which features excellent food and a great bar.  Snorkeling the reef of Loblolly Bay presents some of the best snorkeling you will experience in the entire Caribbean.
    
    
  • Anegada Reef Hotel Bar - Here you get the opportunity to hang with “de locals” and find out what life in “de ilons” is all about.
    
    
• “Secret” Anchorages - Traveling with the owner of a charter boat removes some of the restrictions the charter companies impose on their guests.  I was able to enjoy several outstanding anchorages, the details of which I cannot disclose.  All I can tell you is that they do exist and they are indeed outstanding.
  
  
• Personal security - You can tell how secure a destination is by how locals and visitors behave.  Right from the start, I knew the BVI were safe because nobody locked anything - their dinghies, the boat.  I liked that.
  
  
• Painkillers and Bushwackers - No list of favorite things is complete without mentioning these outstanding beverages.  They seem to be most popular in BVI and are a point of frequent discussion.  For example, I often hear the words, “would you like another Painkiller?” or “this Bushwacker is really going down nicely.”
  
  
• Pat and Jere’s BVI Pages - A great wealth of BVI information has been put together by Jere Lull on this website, so be sure to check it out.
  
  
• The Bight - This spot did not exactly jump out and bight me.  I was not particularly inspired by the beauty of the place and suspect I would be totally turned off during high season when it is transformed into a big noisy parking lot filled with loud boisterous drunks out on their annual Amateur Night.  I can only imagine the fistfights at the dinghy dock of the Willy T as they scramble for a spot to park, and later as they try to get a drink.  Thanks but no thanks.  (Maybe I’m still a little sore about our failed attempt to raft up to the Willy T.)
  
  
  
  
  
• Soper’s Hole - I did not find Soper’s all that appealing, when compared to the many excellent alternatives.  I simply do not feel the need to flock to a commercialized re-invention of the Caribbean to drink rum out of a tin cup that says “Pusser’s - British Navy” on the side.

• Road Town - Enough said.
  
  
• Bitter End Yacht Club - Still not sure where this fits.  The surrounding hills are quite pretty, but aside from the BEYC resort, I am not certain that it is enough to compensate for the sheer number of boats anchored here in high season.  I will have to return to find out, and put this one to rest once and for all.  I can tell you for certain that it is simply a delightful spot in low season.
  
  
  
  
• Bomba’s Shack - Everybody raves about this one, and until I attend a Full Moon Party in person, I cannot judge it fairly.  We did pop in on a night when it was empty, and Bomba wanted $50 from me to shake his hand, so right now, it is not on my favorites list.  It is not a very inspiring joint, and I suppose the presence of mushroom tea would turn even the most lame establishments into a real winner.  Better living through organic chemistry, I guess.
  
  
• Marina Cay - We did not visit because it was closed, so I can only go on my impressions and what people tell me.  Essentially, it is reported to be very popular and very crowded.

I Wanna Go Back

Without question, I would need several trips to the BVI to be able to say that I really “know” this destination.  What I can say for certain is that I understand why it is so popular, given what I experienced so far.  I did not encounter as much of the local flavor as I had hoped, possibly because we were not stopped long enough in one place for it to take hold.  I suspect that would come out over time.

I would most enthusiastically welcome another opportunity to return to the BVI and focus on the spots of greatest interest.  While that might not appear on the surface to be a ringing endorsement, consider that there are islands in the Caribbean that I would not make the effort to return to.  I can say for certain that in the case of the BVI, I wanna go back.