The Unusual Suspects

I have visited The Grenadines many times in the past and for the most part, the trips had primarily been boys trips.  The focus was usually on dining out and frequenting the local bars, looking for someone to play with.  The Grenadines are a much quieter experience than the BVI - usually families and couples - and many times, we were the only patrons in the bar or restaurant.  I wanted to do something different this time.

The idea for a mixed trip had been on my mind for some time.  There would be more dining on board and a more relaxed atmosphere, not having to maintain a heavy social schedule.  We would have a captive audience without having to leave the boat.

Wendy, Round Man, and Lara were the first to join up.  Somehow, Lara was able to convince me that her aunt Maggie would make a great chef on board, and I agreed, despite all the warnings I had about having too many close family members on the same boat.  There was also the issue of what Maggie’s daughter Charlotte was going to do for Christmas, so it was not long before she was on board.  I really paid close attention to that close family member warning!

Lara

Maggie

Charlotte

Wendy

Maggie promised to bring her experience as a connoisseur of fine wines and dining to the table.  As predicted, the provisioning list started to fill up with a large number of wines and liqueurs, H’ors D’eourves I have never even heard of, and a sumptuous meal plan.  This would be good.  Lara initiated a number of clandestine plans behind closed doors that involved Christmas decorations for the boat.  “Bring a stocking and some Christmas lights for the boat and don’t ask any more questions,” I was ordered.  OK.  This would be good too.  Charlotte agreed to be Galley Slave.  I figured that gave us blanket coverage on just about everything, so it was looking like I would not ever have to do anything on the boat, and that would be real good.  Wendy was committed to keeping the Round Man happy, meaning that his total concentration would go into pouring my beverages, and that was beyond real good.

At the pre-trip get-together, I overheard extensive discussions regarding clothing, or rather “changes” of clothing, and kept a tally on the number of excess bags Air Canada would have to process.  I lost count when I mentally filled the third 747.  I calculated the cargo capacity of the boat and concluded that it would be too close to call.

In true Suspect fashion, I was determined to let things go where they may, and enjoy whatever new experiences came along as a result, despite the fact that I had lost all control over what was going to happen.  I would be well fed and have a drink in my hand at all times.  “How can this be bad,” I reasoned, “we have chicks on board, and that’s the real reason guys buy boats, right?”  Absolutely.

Anyway, that is how we cobbled together this group of Unusual Suspects.  In the weeks leading up to the adventure, the newbies were referred to as “Pledge” Suspects, having not yet earned their stripes in beverage consumption and BS-ing.  That would soon change.

So, off we went, to De Ilons, to spend a rather different sort of Christmas, together.

Something New and Exciting

One would think that after a significant number of trips to The Grenadines, I had pretty well done it all.  Not so.  Despite the fact that these islands are small and things move at a snail’s pace at best, there are still many things left to experience.

I’m a bit of a creature of habit.  When I find something I like, I like to experience it again.  Why fix something if it isn’t broken?  Given that we pretty well have these trips fine-tuned, I am hesitant to try something that stands a chance of not working out.

Except this time.  We had four new Suspects on board and were committed to “the complete tour” of each anchorage yet one more time.  I reasoned that if I was going to show people around, I might as well enjoy it by throwing in a few new experiences for myself.  I’m glad I did.

• The Cotton House - Never been there before and quite frankly was never interested in hanging out with a snotty bunch willing to shell out $45 for a glass of orange juice.  To my surprise, I was totally wrong on this assessment (or maybe I have turned into one of them.)  Our Mustique Taxi Tour took us to these fine grounds, where we were welcomed openly by hotel management and encouraged to wander around.  The property was magnificent, the staff was very friendly, and prices were reasonable for a top-end resort.  I will definitely go there and have lunch by the pool on the next trip, it’s that great a place.
  
  
• Windward Anchorage, Tobago Cays - I have always wanted to anchor the boat on the windward side of Baradel, tucked in just behind the Horseshoe Reef.  Only problem, there is no protection from the wind which can top out at 30 knots on occasion.  This time around, winds were in the 15 - 20 knot range, so we went for it.  What a fantastic experience!  We were more or less by ourselves with few other boats around, within swimming distance of the coral heads, and nothing between us and Africa except that reef.
  
  
  
  
• Chatham Bay - I had heard about this anchorage for many years but never managed to squeeze it into the schedule.  This time we did, and it was a pleasant surprise.  A splendid little anchorage with a beautiful beach and not many people around - what else could you ask for?  We enjoyed an excellent stop for lunch, with Eric Clapton’s 112’ yacht Unplugged anchored next to us.  On a future trip, I definitely plan to overnight there and let Boat Boy Shark Attack put on his famous beach barbecue.

The day in Chatham Bay was further enjoyed over a great sail around Union Island - another first for the King of Diesel!

• Anchorage Yacht Club Marina - I normally surrender to the Boat Boys in Clifton.  I have a white flag that I tie to the shrouds that says “I give up, take all my money.”  This time, I was not keen on wading into that scene.  Since I also needed to refill the water tanks, I was committed to docking somewhere, and there are only three options in Clifton.  I was not at all  keen on backing into that tight corner of the harbor at the Bougainvilla dock, broadside to 30 knots of breeze with intermittent anchor windlass problems.  I took a swing by Anchorage and found that I could drop anchor dead upwind of the dock and drift back to it.  There was a Dock Master there to help out and the whole procedure was painless.  I didn’t even spill my Rummer.  We decided to stay overnight to facilitate easy boarding of the two new Suspects who were joining the trip in Union.  The slip ended up being free because we ate at the Anchorage restaurant that evening.  The food and ambiance was great, and we particularly enjoyed feeding our leftovers to the sharks in the pool. This whole experience was worth doing, and I think it will be the ticket for all future Union visits.
  
  
  
  
• Peak Season Effects - I normally travel to The Grenadines in “shoulder” season, and have a feel for the normal volume of visitors as a result of that.  I have never been there when it was packed, until now.  Salt Whistle Bay had twenty six boats anchored on Christmas Day, where twelve to fifteen boats is considered absolute maximum for that anchorage.  There was a complete row of catamarans lining the shore - you could practically walk across the Bay by stepping on boats!  While it was tight, the Christmas feeling made it seem quite cozy, and it was really OK.
  
  The Tobago Cays went from twelve boats on December 21 to over fifty boats on Christmas Eve.   It was busy but still did not seem crowded.
  
  I have never seen a packed house at the Frangipani, until now.   It was jammed, and actually, a lot of fun.  And they did not flick the lights at 10 PM to encourage you to leave.  We had premier table service delivered by none other than Premier himself.
  
  
• The Christmas Winds - For the first week, they were non-existent, shut down by a mid-Atlantic low pressure system.  On December 22nd, they returned.  I had been apprehensive about them, fearing that they would make some anchorages untenable.  Fact is, they only add about 4 knots to the average wind speed, so we experienced 22 - 26 knots right in the face in Tobago Cays, instead of the usual 18 - 22.  After a while, you stopped noticing.
  
  
• Whaling Museum, Bequia - Never stopped in, until now.  It is small, so it does not take more than a few minutes, which is great.  We managed to meet Bentley Corea, who is now the lead harpooner since the passing of Athneal Ollivierre a few years ago.  Hearing Bentley tell whaling stories was a great experience.
  
  
• Mayreau Wedding Party - Every  now and then, you have the opportunity to experience something real special.  Our friendship with Robert “Righteous” on Mayreau goes back several years, and every time we return, he treats us like royalty.  This time, after a wonderful dinner at his restaurant, he brought us over as his guests to a wedding party that was going on.  We were the only off-island visitors, and everybody treated us like we belonged.  We all danced to some great Soca music for several hours before we made our way down the hill to Salt Whistle Bay.  Our gracious hosts dispatched two young lads to escort us down the hill, just to make sure we got back safe.  The hospitality and respect these people show others simply humbles me.

Cooking lobsters in preparation for the wedding party
Photo by Charlotte Scott

• Tobago Cays Beach Barbecue - Although technically I have experienced the beach barbecue before, it has been a number of years, and the experience is now much better.  We commissioned Mr. Plat to host it for us and he did not disappoint.  He has moved his operation to a very nicely groomed spot on Petit Bateau.  It is reasonably sheltered from the wind and has a proper picnic table.  We did have to bring our own plates, cutlery, and glasses and we surprisingly did manage to get them all back!  Plat’s lighting system was suspect and gave out after an hour.  I had an emergency micro-flashlight that was tied to a tree and provided light for several hours - the darned thing just would not quit.  Plat cooked an excellent fish dinner that was enjoyed by all.  The sweet sounds of Reggae and Soca filled the air as we all danced on the beach under the stars.  The lights from the sixty-odd boats anchored on the Cays lit up the area and was really quite magical.